Manaus (AM) – Nature and Culture

Factsheet 4×1

Date: 17/07/2012 the 27/07/2012

Saímos of: Bethlehem – PA

Destination: Manaus - AM

Travel time: 6 days, of Catamaran, the trip described in the previous post

Where to sleep: Not Boutique Hotel House Theatre, in Manaus, and no Hotel Ariaú, national forest.

What eat different: Numerous exotic regional dishes, as alligator and tartaruga, no restaurant The Woodman, e saunduíche of tucumã com queijo, easily found through the city streets.

Tire cheio: Watch the opening of the Amazonas Jazz Festival at Teatro Amazonas and stay 3 days in the jungle. How many days in Manaus we can not choose a tire filled only. Watch a memorable presentation of jazz in one of the most important Brazilian theaters was indescribable, as well as having the opportunity to visit the Amazon rainforest close.

Tire murcho: Untapped potential for tourism in the city. We noted a certain carelessness in relation to cleaning and conservation of some areas. The centrinho, Where is the Amazon Theatre, is neat, a few blocks away but if you can find already a reality not very friendly to tourists. Hair we saw, plans to address many of these points to the cup 2014.

(We will have the video on our experience in Manaus!)

We arrived in Manaus after 6 days of crossing the catamaran Rondônia, on Tuesday, on the 17 July. We arrived early and we imagine that the procedures to withdraw the boat would be easy Tanajura, after we had consulted previously and the crew told us they would just take the car and go. Happy to finally have reached Manaus, we left the boat and went to eat something in the port while withdrawing the charge. When we returned, which it was our surprise when we realize that the catamaran was too low in relation to port and, in this way, to Tanajura never sairia (at least entire). Ficamos outraged! Could not stand over that boat and had just informed us that the withdrawal would be necessary to wait for the rest of the load, hoping to raise the boat and then after that we can rescue our faithful companion. Ah, this withdrawal process to begin at 11 am, end at approximately 16h and 9h were still.

Without having much to do about what we were told, we split and while some followed the movement in the port, others were searching for the tours offered by travel agencies in the city. After much research we chose to move 3 days in the jungle leaving the next day, with the agency Iguana Tourism, where we talked with Wilson, People BONISSIMA. At the end of the afternoon was released Tanajura, as planned, and we met for dinner with Mr. Dennington, Friend of Gustavus, who took us for a delicious fish in the Fish section of Juvenal, while we gave several tips to get through to Venezuela. After dinner, try to sleep a lot (although it sounds strange, all we need to spend the night is a safe place, because we have the tents in Tanajura and can sleep almost anywhere).

On the following morning, 18 July, meet with our guide, Matthew, uma paste speedboat, then a van and then a canoe and after 3 hours of travel we arrived at the small hotel that would serve as the basis for 3 day tour we did in the jungle, being greeted with a hearty and tasty breakfast served in your restaurant fairly rustic but cozy.

On this first day we, in the afternoon, a boat ride through flooded areas (forest areas flooded by rain) and streams (stretches of river) the region, and a piranha fishing (we call more "feeding piranhas", because they could always take the bait without getting caught on the hook!). We sailed for hours over areas that were flooded due to rains and it is unbelievable to note that the water is high in the treetops.

Yet on that day, In the night, conducted an alligators, where our guide Matthew as well as be able to find the animals at night, still managed to catch one of them to see up close, before releasing it back to water.

On Thursday, 19 July, woke up early to grab a canoe and watch an amazing sunrise-sunset, since the middle of the flooded areas. After we had coffee in the morning and left for a walk 4 hours in the dense Amazon jungle, assisted by our guide Matthew. The feeling that the forest is alive is very clear. There are thousands of sounds and smells all the time you are there. One can prove handful of what we learned in school that the Amazon forest is self-supporting, through cliclos of life in which nutrients and resources are always reused and extremely important for what is coming. The soil itself is not rich region, what feeds the forest is the forest itself.

During the walk to Matthew was showing us how the natives make use of forest resources, drawing sheets to make networks, solutions for medical, for basically all you need. He even took a larva of a small coconut that serves as food for native, protein-rich, ate the André.

After the long walk, back for another tasty lunch, rested a little and went out into the woods again, since that day we would set up camp in the jungle to sleep more deeply and experience life in the forest. We were the 5 Expedition, 1 manor of alemães, 1 Dutch couple and our guides. We got to where would sleep at about four thirty in the afternoon and have already started to prepare dinner and pitching camp: anoiteceria in two hours and is easier to have everything ready to leave while the sunshine is. We cut some branches to the fire, assemble networks as (That night we slept in hammocks), dinner and prepare for the onslaught of mosquitoes already announced what happens in the jungle at dusk and dawn. Pants were, long-sleeved shirt and we, even on the clothes, I bought repellents havíamos, they were the best available in Brazil.

The mosquitoes came and the battle began. But these were not mere mosquitoes, they were virtually mutants, we had never seen anything like it in our lives simple urban! Besides much higher, they virtually ignored the repellent and sting through clothing also! Each bite hurt like a small prick and had no way to fight back, were many. Defeated, went to sleep in our hammocks with mosquito nets already assembled, ultimately it would be impossible to sleep as mosquitoes feast. Indo sleep, faced with an illustrious companion who was under the rustic roof of leaves that served as cover for the networks: a tarantula, the size of an open hand, that estava back butterfly. In spite of the fear of some, we did not have much to do, after all she was not behind us and attack it would provoke anger in the beast, by the way it is poisonous. We left the arachnid there and went to sleep with the utmost care not to take no mosquitoes inside the net area of ​​our networks, tarefa that make com uns conseguiram dormiram Masters and quietly, while others are not so careful spent the night being attacked.

The next day, 20 July, Wake up early, We dismantled the camp and we went to visit the house of a native, where we had breakfast in the morning and we have a quick conversation with the locals, in a stilt house to watch the annual rise and fall of waters in the Amazon region, the victim of such a movement in some years.

We come back to the small hotel, almoçamos and where the jungle despedimos, picking up again the way back through canoes, combed and launches, tired by the intense experience, but satisfied.

One thing we notice is the strong presence (practically 80% two visitors) of foreigners in this program that made the woods. It turns out that the tourism potential is much more out there than released here in Brazil. Or maybe the Brazilian tourist is more focused on other destinations, while foreigners seeking Brazilian destinations. No matter what the cause, in the Amazon there is a huge unused potential for tourism, to which we, Brazilian, we should pay more attention.

We went back to Manaus and looking for a place to stay in the coming days. After a little produrar, can make contact with Mrs. Claudia Mendonça, friendly owner of the Boutique Hotel House Theatre, we proporcionou 5 pleasant nights in your hotel, knew best as the capital of the Brazilian largest state. As we are located in the center of Manaus, next to the Teatro Amazonas (probably the most famous tourist attraction in Manaus), in a few minutes we could access the major sights and it saved us a lot of time (also because the traffic in Manaus, like any Brazilian city, é complicated). Home theater set up at the hotel a base for the Expedition 4×1: We had a warm, great care, breakfast in the morning and excellent, mainly, internet.

We divide these 5 days between visiting the city and work on the project, seeing all we had to see about shipping the car by ship from Colombia (and all that would possibilidades), writing and updating the site. For our walks in Manaus, passed the Missing Square, Provincial Mansion, Rio Branco Palace, Cathedral and City Market Adolphe Lisbon, photo below. Ah, Another interesting thing that happened in Manaus was the interview we gave to Jornal A Critica! The friendly journalist Cassandra went to the hotel and spent time talking to us! The next day we were super happy and surprised, she produced three excellent articles about the Expedition 4×1 (click here to ler)!

In the market we can see the richness and variety of items sold, as brown-to, pó de guarana, pressed cacau, all prepared by the local population.

On one of the days we had the privilege of having lunch at restaurant The Woodman, whose menu was incredibly varied and full of typical foods. Experienced very tasty dishes, including recipes made with turtle and alligator, but despite the surprise, the owner of the restaurant told us that all animals are created by the restaurant with authorization from IBAMA.

We visited the legendary Teatro Amazonas: inaugurated in Manaus 1896, At the height of the Rubber Cycle, it reflects the lifestyle of the region at that time, with the city being practically a part of Europe in Brazil. Inclusive, because the rubber, Manaus was the second Brazilian city to receive electric power and has been called the Paris of the Tropics. The theater has undergone restorations and today is well maintained, Daily guided tours for those wishing to see its structure inside. This structure that deserves attention: within the theater can be found directly from crystal chandeliers of Murano, Italy, and parts of Carrara marble. The floor of the theater in some places is mixed between wooden boards light and dark, symbolizing the meeting of the rivers Negro and, all done with great care and kept perfectly.

To our luck, week we were in Manaus began the 7th Jazz Festival Amazonas what happened at the Teatro Amazonas, with performances every night of the day 24 the 29 July. We were asked by the press office of the secretary of culture of Manaus, represented by Mr. Marcelo Guilherme, to attend the opening day of the festival that had two memorable performances: the first with the Amazonas Band and then a mega performance Zimbo Trio, all in full Opera House. Indescribable. It, as if it were not enough, we were even interviewed by local TV Globo (click here to attend) and the Amazon Portal (click here to see the matter).

On the morning of Wednesday, 25 July, From rumor to resolve Venezuela. Arrange things, put in the car and went to eat something quick before they hit the road, last two were already in the afternoon. Eating a sandwich in the parking lot of McDonald's, received the call from Mr. Marcelo Guilherme, adviser to the Opera House, who had been adviser to the Hotel Ariaú, with an invitation. He had just contacted the owner of the hotel and I was all set to stay 2 night there. We had just set to arrive at the hotel, if by land or river. Redid our plans and went to the hotel office, which lies within Manaus, and we were very well received by Rita Ellen, owns the hotel. After a good chat and some tips from Ellen, or continue to Ariaú Tower, unique in its architectural design, to be built on piles of wood, with some rooms built at the height of the trees.

The arrival really impresses as a function of the grandeur and harmony between buildings and the forest. After that the unknown ship, faced with a series of monkeys that were around the pool playing with guests, both children and adults. During the day we were there we did some tours in the jungle we had ever done before, but it was worth repeating. In walking through the woods, learn how to set up a trap to catch animals, saw an ant whose bite can give fever and that is part of the ritual of passage to adulthood for young people in certain Indian tribes, In addition plant used for making roofing materials, some of which were transformed into fans, and head ornaments in minutes by the guides. Made during a night of traditional alligator spotting, only this time we took a fright, since the guide suddenly jumped from the boat in search of caiman. Within seconds he was back in the boat with a baby alligator in hand and all who wished could hold and take pictures with the little animal that measured about 60 cm. During the late fifth-fair, 26 July, went to the most anticipated tour offered by Ariaú, it was to photograph and swim with the echo. At the pier in aproximarmos, has been possible to see dolphins going to the surface for air. How many were, we split into 3 groups of ten people to enter the water with the dolphins. The structure had a keeper, he possessed many pounds of fish in order to attract the animals closer to. As a way of balancing the power of the porpoise, IBAMA only allows these visits during 3 days of the week.

With the bucket of fish in the hand of the handler, had no secret. The dolphins passed beneath our feet, and came to our side with your skin, it seems to rubber, em for food. Some of them took almost his entire body of water to find fish in the hand of the handler. In fact the ride was most interesting among those offered by the hotel. For us it was a very good surprise to have known the Ariaú, a great place for kids, to relax with family, but, above all, for anyone who wants a more intense contact with nature, without compromising the structure of a traditional hotel.

Our passage was long in Manaus, was almost fate that we are far more, a mixture of preparation for leaving the country and knowledge of the city and the jungle. Manaus to Venezuela rumamos, stopping to sleep in Boa Vista. Brazil now only the back, when we are at the very end of the Expedition 4×1. Bring on the unknown!

For more photos of Manaus, click here!