The sun and the two seas

Ficha 4 × 1

Date: 17/11/2012 to 20/11/2012

Path: Always follow the Carretera Federal 1 (Mexico 1) always guiding us through the boards and local guidelines. The roads are, largely, two-way, but in very good condition.

Some seek to "Baja" for its perfect waves on the west side (bathed by the Pacific) while others go kayaking, or nadam quietly, the numerous coves of its east side (bathed by the Sea of ​​Cortez). Many retired Americans and Canadians fleeing the harsh winter, further north on the continent, and drive their giant RV's (Recreational Vehicles or as we call in Portuguese: Trailers) for up to camp 6 months in one of the most beautiful and quiet beaches in the central part, or more to the north of the peninsula. And the richness of its fauna allows anyone to swim with sea lions, whale sharks and many colorful fish; or simply spotting dolphins, Streaks, gigantic gray whales or enjoy the agile pelicans giving great dives in search of dinner. However, despite the fame he receives for its beaches and nightlife, the Mexican peninsula of Baja California hides, inside, Amazing traces of prehistoric life that can be accessed by trails of high or low complexity. All this natural wealth is extended by more than 1.200km (north / sul) this is the second longest peninsula in the world! And despite the short strip of land (under 250 km) linking the Gulf of California (to leste) the Pacific Ocean (to west), high and colorful canyons (with peaks up to 3.100m) com together giant cacti, spread across the arid terrain in the middle of the peninsula. The Expedition was keen to cross the peninsula from end to end. And it all started from the north…

The agile pelicans diving along the Baja Fish ago.

Ahh!!! How was nice to wake up again with the view to the beach! The Tanajura was already missing try the taste of salt on your fittings again That was one of the facilities and "luxuries" that there would in the coming days by Baja California. Our entry in the peninsula was characterized by Tijuana, the largest city of the Mexican state of Baja California (BC) and our first night there was close, a RV Park, pras front "Rosarito". Os RV Park (estacionamento of RVs – ou Trailers) are very common along the Baja on behalf of retired Americans who spend months there with their "homes peddlers" every winter. Thus, it was easy to find a place to pull over and we set up our tents and Tana.

After months of suffering cold U.S., get up early to enjoy the first rays of sun. We devote the early hours of the morning to enjoy the moment here in Playas de Rosarito. Now one of us sat down to read the oceanfront, sometimes dressed up some things inside the messy Tanajura. We also take a walk to the beach to the nearby fishing village, morning to witness the sale of fish fresh out of small boats. Curious foi ver, yield logo, many locals already eating fried fish even combining! A conversation with the curious vigilant and a little game of basketball followed by a "ball control", there on the court's RV Park, ended our morning. It was time to move further south.

We started toward Ensenada already early afternoon. But before we stopped for lunch in a simple restaurant, with chairs and plastic dishes, ali downtown Rosarito Beach. It is very common in northern Baja restaurants in the style of traditional restaurants interior Northeast: muita simplicidade and kindness, and good food, farta e barata! And nós, é clear, eat one of the dishes we liked best so far in Shipping: quesadillas as Marlin. But we also experience two other very traditional in Mexico integer: Fish tacos (fish) and Shrimp! But it was not only the restaurants that they referred us to the Brazilian Northeast. Besides the small coastal towns and fishing villages, the visual changes abruptly still a few miles from the coast. The roads that cut through much of the BC run inside the peninsula in a dry and stony ground, onde huge cacti with humble misturam casinhas of alvenaria. A reality that we witnessed in northeastern backlands. The only difference is that this kind of image and dried cactus is mostly seen in our country, for at least 100, 150 miles from coast, while here in BC are seen less than 10km!

By nightfall, the flat tire of this passage: excited by a rogue salesman who said, "To have a real experience of Baja", NON could let go of the traditional nightclubs Papas&Beers, buy our tickets in advance (only "guarantee"). It happens that, Fate of, or Papas&Beers is a great attraction for young Americans and Mexicans here in the region. But even being a Saturday, were in the low season and the fine structure of the bar remained almost empty all night, without running the main attractions. Yes… "Shot"…

The next morning we went to Ensenada. A turn in the centrinho already revealed that this was a city for American tourists: almost all prices were in dollars in catalogs, besides trinkets and crafts that were sold on the streets parallel to the beach. What saved, entanto not, was the beautiful and gigantic Mexican flag waving on the beachfront and interesting little square that, that Sunday afternoon, had a fair typical cuisine of the region and presenting local bandinhas. At bedtime we returned to where we had seen hours before putting a nice sunsets: San Miguel beach.

San Miguel was the place where he used to attend none other than Jim Morrison. Located at 11 km north of Ensenada, the beach is a major 'points’ surf across Baja California peninsula. Earlier we had watched some surfers catch the last waves while the sun set. And the next morning witnessed many of them taking their coffee, e prolongateing, even before the first waves of the morning. We camped right there in the parking lot of the beach. Along those surfers who mostly came from the U.S. state of California and had "stretched" up there in search of good waves and heat Mexican. To tell the truth, the heat was not so much, because as we were in winter, Pacific winds early, and in the late afternoon, are quite cumbersome. But the serenity and visual site justified, and very, the constant visits of the star of The Doors!

It is worth mentioning that the roads of Baja phenomena have, some sights and attractions apart…

Still there by the San Miguel, more precisely the 40 miles south of Ensenada, There is a curious fact of nature. The sudden movement of the tide, jammed against a hole in a rock wall, triggers a long sea and surf sequential throwing jets of water up to 30m tall! This spectacle of nature is known as La Bufadora! We take the vibe site and sat there for nearly an hour reading, or chatting. The sun and mild weather along with the beautiful landscapes of the Baja constantly afforded moments of reading, peace and reflexões.

At the beginning of Baja California were moving slowly. Because, still at around 16:30 the sun would lie on the Pacific and, do not take it to the road at night, drove very little. We decided to spend the night not too "far" away, San Quintin.

The road from San Miguel to San Quintin was changing landscapes. We crossed Oras trade and rustic poor encrusted vegetation in arid huge cacti and stones, now the distance we could see the green fields and vast vineyards and wineries of Baja California. And even more surprises were to come down the road!

It happens that, although we arrived minutes before sunset and could not see much of San Quintin, have slept there got us excellent recommendations on Baja. The friendly owner of the Hotel and RV Park Cielito Lindo, along with his brother, filled us with recommendations of what to visit! And the next morning, yield logo, we set.

Strictly follow its recommendations, continue under: go south of San Quintin until you see the light poles that, between bone km 47 and 48, cross the road and continue along the right side toward the ocean. Perfect! We take a very bumpy dirt road following the lampposts. Rises, falls, holes, more holes, falls somewhat more, to Tanajura trepidava that Só, and suddenly we could see a flat ground with sea sand and a huge hole, near a cliff. Within this huge hole and entered the sea, along with it, also hinder some families of sea lions who enjoyed that unique little beach in the middle of the huge cliff. The peace of the place was so that we could hear clearly the "barking" of sea lions that seemed commenting to each other about those 5 Give intruders tiravam photos.

Dali, we cut the interior of the peninsula east. We would finish that pass through northern Baja California with our first visit to the Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of ​​Cortez). Accustomed to see the beautiful sunset Pacific, Now we would have the privilege of seeing him also born at sea. OS, desalination vez, Sea of ​​Cortez not.

And if arriscássemos a poetic description of what we witness here in the Gulf of California would say that… the sun rises from the sea and logo colors of red and orange sky. And in his rise slowly hides behind the hills of one of several peninsulas and islands, that scattered encontram imensidão serene na da Bahia de Los Angeles.

And those were just our first day in the Baja!

Want to see more photos of the passage through northern Baja California? Then click here!