Date: 18/10/2012 a 20/10/2012

* Almost 2 hours including the stop between dinner and hotel reservations + longo trecho com nevasca e pouca visibilidade.

Path: We left Vancouver by Trans-Canada Highway and follow, basically, by ela tied Banff (BC-1 E, BC-3 E, BC-5 N, BC 1 It, AB 1)

Our companion Tanajura was once again put to the test and did not disappoint his extraordinary force! This time it was the lakes region Canadians, one of the country's main postcards, que testemunhou o heroísmo da nossa amiga e nos contemplou com uma das mais belas trilhas pela neve da Expedição até aqui.

The snowy mountains around the magnificent Lake Louise, Alberta – Canada

Oil radiator level and, tires checked, full tank and breakfast taken. Tudo ready! We set out from Vancouver towards Banff National Park at about 11 am, After saying goodbye to Gaius that welcomed us very well and became a great friend of all of us! After a few hours on the road we stopped in the small town of Mittier for lunch. To our surprise almost all restaurants were cooking Japanese or Chinese! We did not know until then, but the proximity to the Eastern countries in the Pacific brought a flood of immigrants (post-World War II) making the west coast of Canada to become a large colony of Japanese, Chinese, Thai offspring among other Orientals. Logo, eat Japanese food, different from Brazil, something is very cheap! And so was our lunch: at bento (combined Japanese food at that restaurant came with misoshiru, tempura, guioza, California Roll, Add rice teriaki Frango grelhado! - At least tudo 11 U.S. dollar!)

Our intention was camping in Banff, but soon the road would have the first signs that this would not be a very pleasant. It happens that, shortly after sundown sun, the snow began to shake and just over 6 hours estrada, after lunch, we stopped for our second and last meal of the day. The temperature on our thermometer - we bought there in Alaska - pointed the temperature below 4 graus Celsius. We entered a Canadian diner that had nothing special, but the prices of the sandwiches were good - even compared with the Mc Donald's, in the U.S. and Canada are practically free! We take this internet site and confirm what we predicted: there would be snow in the next 2 or 3 day and reach minimum temperatures to -7 ° C. You could not camping, um teríamos to book accomodation. Our luck is that we were just coming to Banff in the range between the high seasons and the prices were very negotiable. Thus, got a good quality hotel for the price of a roadside motel U.S.! Hosting resolved, seguimos para a estrada.

The heavy snow followed us for long kilometers in the days to walk through the Canadian Rockies!

A neve, entanto not, not forgive! Cars and trucks began walking in rows as in a train. The snow that hit the windshield wiper just froze and should be at the maximum to prevent accumulation of snow on the glass. Our top speed: 65 km / h! Then, slowly, Banff we arrived at around 2:30 in the morning. Almost 15 hours after we left Vancouver!

The next morning, clear, woke up a little late. We were so exhausted from the road! We had coffee and we left around 11:30 to Lake Louise (Lake Louise) - The beautiful emerald lake, surrounded by high mountains - one of the main attractions of the region of Banff Park and a major tourist destination in Canada. Lake Louise is about 40 my (58 km) do centro de Banff.

Leaving Banff toward Lake Louise. Alberta – Canada

The snow was already one step "Christmas" The cozy town of Banff – Alberta, Canada

Arriving there we passed the tourist information center to see which were the best tracks and what was still open. But, if got lucky with the hotel (because we are in low season), not given the same luck with the activities to do there. What happens is that, in much of Canada (and also in the northern U.S.) most parks have two high seasons: the summer - when practicing, obviously, summer sports, tais como: tracks, Riding, mountaineering, kayak, canoeing, etc.; and or winter, that is when the most popular sports are skiing, snowboard e o cross-country ski (a kind of track using skis to walk long distances in the snow). Thus, in autumn, (time when we crossed several of these parks) Heavy snow and cold prevent the practice of most summer sports (the companies themselves do not offer those activities more) and the amount of snow is still not enough for snow sports practice. Thus, some trails that lead to some of the lakes in the region Lake Louise were already closed because of snow. And those that were open had so much snow that they should be made with caution. Recommendations heard and maps in hand, we went to the parking lot near the main trail, around the famous lake! But we did not know what was coming…

An incredible visual: the high mountains Rrochosas, the snow and the clear waters of Lake Louise – Alberta, Canada

…A young man from Hong Kong who was with her mother and sister to travel to Canada was coming down a curve at the exit of the parking lot of the park and lost control of the Ford Fiesta that led. When we go over there we saw the car fell into a ditch and family worried, fora do next. Nothing happened to them, but the car was tilted in the ditch, in the snow, and could not get out at all. We went out to try to help them, but, at first, as we did not know what to do, tempt or "basic": get the car shoving, someone while speeding. However, as the car had no traction because of the snow, He skated and increasingly more fall into the mire. Moreover, a cada tentativa ele ficava mais próximo de acertar as árvores que estavam ao lado da vala.

That's when we thought about using our rescue equipment! The first thing we did was try to take the car using the plank desatolamento. We remove the excess snow under the car, dig a small hole underneath the wheels to nail the planks, accelerate and… Nothing! Without traction on the rear wheels only skated the car in snow. We were very afraid that the car would tip over sideways with our attempts and, then, decided to stop. But the girls were desperate, because the car was rented and they should arrive at night in a city 8 Banff hours to catch a flight the next morning. It had been up more than 1 time from the moment we arrived there, the only mechanical aid available in the city were busy and would take several hours to reach the site. Elas pediram para tentarmos o que fosse necessário e que não nos importássemos com o que pudesse acontecer.

So we had two alternatives: pull the car using the winch or strap rescue. The problem is that the car did not have a hook on the back or redemption, or in front, very common in cars 4×4. Neither had a foothold to hoist prenderemos, making their use impractical. (A park ranger who passed by, 15 minutes before, informed us that the winch to use these types of cars needed a special hook, which did not have)

Well. Our last option to get the car out of the ditch would use the rescue strap tied somewhere in the car. But before, decided to move the car forward slightly. We wanted to leave it a point not to flatter risking hood it's time for stride. Tingly inside! Well, the car more or less aligned, tie strap to the axis of the rear wheels Fiesta and hold the other end in our hook - at the rear of Tanajura. Afraid of Tanajura also skidding due to excessive ice on the road and the weight of the other vehicle to be pulled, positioned upstream part ela na da track, that less gelo possuía. It was the moment of truth. We were pretty sure it would be impossible to take a vehicle from almost 1 Snow ton, further with the rise being in Tanajura… with ice!!!

The safety strap tied with a tip at the rear axle and the other in the Fiesta Tanajura!!

Tanajura ready to attempt to tow the Fiesta Snow! We, with butterflies in my stomach! :)

And off we went for another "test". We called the reduced traction, control of embreagem…. and… deu certo!!! Within moments the Tanajura with his strength "colossal" dragged the car out of the ditch skating in the snow like a toy!!! More was still cool to see the happiness of the girls who jumped for joy and hugged! They came to us and said they would pay us a lunch for the long hours that we were there (were more or less one 2 hours). We said it was not necessary, because even we were a bit of a hurry to do the trail before it got too late. After much insisting we accept. The funny thing is that the mother said that her daughter is who would pay, it was responsible for them have fallen into the ditch! Hahahaha

Tanajura "saves Homeland"!!! The Fiesta sticks out of the ditch and the girls celebrate with us in Hong Kong!!!

We eat, talked a lot with them, we took pictures together and finally to Lake Louise. Nay, tempted to follow, because before a Canadian approached us to ask about the Expedition. He had made a trip from Canada to Argentina and was delighted with our script! Took photo of the car and everything else. We used to ask him to paste the sticker in Canada Tanajura!

Tanajura all is achando!! The girls from Hong Kong made a point of taking a picture with her!!! :)

The friendly Canadian who was proud of pasting the flag of his country on Tanajura!!!

Returning to the track… We arrived at Lake Louise already over 16:30 to begin a beautiful trail around the lake. With little time, we restrict ourselves to do half of the climb that reaches the highest point of the lake. Lake Louise was named in honor of one of the daughters of Queen Victoria (UK): Louise Caroline Alberta in princesa (which also gave its name to the state which the lake is part – Alberta). Surrounded by countless snowy mountains and the elegant "The Fairmont – Chateau Lake Louise”, or lake and really lovely. Ficamos ali imaginando como seria ele com o céu aberto.

The truth is that most occupation and development of this region - Banff and Lake Louise - occurred due to the construction of Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR – Canadian Railways), Once de por 1880, with the intention of connecting the major cities of the country to the East, até a British Columbia, to west. The strong connection that the country still had with the UK made the name of many of its cities and landscapes were sent to those countries. Also curious is that both Banff and Lake Louise are among the highest cities in the country. It, due to lack of tradition in Canada for mountaineering activities at that time, Swiss climbers were hired by Canadian Railways to stimulate (more safely) tourism here in the Rockies! Good deal for the Railways and also to the barracks who received both the builders of railroads, as tourists began to visit the parks!

Gabriel overpaying "fortão" across from Lake Louise – Alberta, Canada

The emerald Lake Louise giving up will skip!

Mountains reflecting in Lake Louise symmetrically!

Parade on frozen Mirror Lake after 40 my. climbing the snowy trail around Lake Louise!

The luxurious Chateau Lake Louise right in front of lake! It's just not as comfortable as our tents!!! hahaha

Even after sunset the Lake Louise shows her charm reflecting the scenery around you!

We return to Banff hungry! Then we decided to "open hand", nor?! After all, had not paid lunch… hehehe We went to dinner at one of the most typical fondue restaurants in Banff, even that had been strongly recommended by Rodrigo and Ana (do 1000days): o Grizzly House. Excellent!! Or rather estava lotado. We eat a full meal that had: cream and onion fondue CHEESE entry, The main meat fondue and fruit in melted chocolate for dessert. By far the best fondue already eat into our lives!

Opening the billfold and taking the belly of misery in delicious Grizzley House in Banff, Alberta – Canada

The next morning we decided to explore a little further north to visit the glaciers up close! We woke up early and headed to a major ice fields of the country: the Columbia Icefields. Located ha 185 km from Banff and on the way to Jasper Park (more northerly) Columbia or feeds 8 large glaciers. But just outside the Banff heavy snow indicated that the task would not be easy. We took a heavy snowfall in the first 40 km of road, but it diminished gradually. The snow was much reduced until the weather cleared around 13:30. A sign on the road signaled that the conditions to the Columbia Icefields not good, then greatly reduced the speed. It was an incredible visual. Lakes and rivers, in a blue opaque, mingled amid high mountains with its large fields of eternal ice. Um corvo encarando a Tanajura foi o único animal que vimos por ali.

Tanajura taking muuuita snow on the way to Columbia Icefields – Alberta, Canada!!!

The snow gave a truce and we contemplate the beauty of the way towards the glaciers! (Alberta, Canada)

A crow decided to "face" to Tanajura!

One hour later on, almost coming to Columbia, caidos saw some cars off the track. They had skated on snow that dominated the road. But this time there was a rescue team on site! The Tanajura breathed relieved and followed his task with great mastery. We got to the main glacier Columbia Icefields, or Athabasca Glacier! But, unfortunately, feel some disappointment: even just a few hundred meters away, the fog prevented us to see more clearly the glacier. We took a walk through the snow, in an attempt to get closer to the glacier. But little has changed. We could at least feel that the skin is no joke reality of a region marked by eternal snows. Slowly drive the Tanajura back and crossed with a friendly family of mountain goats that were faced interrogation, imagining that bug was to Tanajura! hahaha

One among the 4 cars that had gone off to the track and fell into the ditch on the way to Columbia Icefields (Alberta, Canada)

With the cars being towed traffic was a bit slower in the region

Arrival at the Athabasca Glacier in the Columbia Icefields (Alberta, Canada)

The fog and cloudy weather disrupted our visual Athabasca glacier (the bottom of Tanajura, between the mountains)

We walk 20 min on the trail covered with snow for a last attempt to see the Athabasca glacier more closely. Without much success :(

At least one family of friendly goats came to say goodbye before returning to Banff! hahaha

Numerous plates along the path indicated that very commerce, posts, camping areas, etc.. were already closed due to winter!

It was our last night in Banff and after so much snow and ham sandwiches (equal to the Keys!) needed even a hot bath and a good Canadian wine!

Tanajura dawns with some "stalactites" Ice in very cold morning, before departure to Banff (Alberta, Canada)

The farewell to the friendly town of Banff in Alberta, Canada

To see more photos from our visit to Banff and Lake Louise, click here

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Date: 07/10/2012 e 09/10/2012

Saímos of: Haines, Alaska, EUA.

Final destiny: Prince Rupert, British Columbia, Canadá.

Total distance: 765 km

Travel time: A day and Duas noites.

Path: We took the ferry across Inside Passage and, so, nos despedíamos do Alasca.

Where to sleep: In the chaos of the rest room, na balsa.

What we eat good: The food was not the best ferry, but got two sandwiches for free on the first day! J

Tire cheio: The opportunity to meet new people, sem pressa e sem a rotina normalmente corrida da Expedição.

Tire murcho: Sleeping on the floor is never good right! (hehehe)

Was 16h Day 07 October and we were ready to board the ferry that would take us from Haines to Prince Rupert, a trip 2 days, stopping to exchange vessel only once. We boarded with Tana and sailed around 17h toward Juneau, the state capital of Alaska, where would exchange ferry to leave then finally to Prince Rupert, Canada not. Tana Paramos a raft, along with several other cars, e subimos para a para fazer um reconhecimento da embarcação.

Entering the ferry

Essa route we would do between Haines (to north) and Prince Rupert (most southerly), sailing between islands and the mainland is known as Inside Passage (in Portuguese, interior passage). It does not come to pass by the open sea and the impression was that, As is ground on both sides, We were down a great river. Mountains covered with ice, glaciers and sometimes even whales are often seen things on that route (unfortunately the "high season" of whales had just a few weeks ago and I could not see any). But still, is a surreal landscape, especially when you remember that this is simply a "ferry" for routine users!

How much time we would not be in it, do not bother to look for good places, we just sat in the observation deck outdoors watching the beautiful scenery passing before our eyes while there was still a bit of daylight. The night came quickly and then down to Jantar we prepare to land, pois Juneau já estava próxima e precisaríamos dirigir a Tana até o outro ferry.

Passing time

As we did not know for sure how long we had to exit a ferry and embark on another, and so we were careful that everything was ok already removed the Tana and take it to the point of waiting for the boarding another ferry. However, then we found out that our expectations were not very real: we had to wait over 3 hours for boarding. Well, back a bit, so stop with Tana in the waiting area realize that the entry of passengers walk was about to be released. Therewith, we split and 3 of us went to the queue of passengers without car, others 2 were hoping to steer the ship when it authorized. The pedestrian entrance seemed a race. Let us explain why: not many people are willing to pay for cabins for sleeping and, then, bring their sleeping bags and pillows to lie in any public place of the ship and sleep. We, clear, we fit into this category. Therewith, when opening the entry for all passengers who are going with this intention immediately in search of the best places! We were in 3, then we parted and soon we were dropping our junk where we thought it a good place. After a few laps on the ship discovered a "small room of rest" that was definitely the best option for sleep: ground "soft" (carpet), few windows (what deixava dark) and with ample space between seats, encaixarmos great for our sleeping bags! Confirmamos nossa escolha logo que percebemos que várias pessoas foram atrás desse lugar hahaha.

Meanwhile Gabriel and Gustavo, accompanying the Tanajura, continued to wait outside and ended up making friends with other drivers who also awaiting shipment of their vehicles in ship. But one of them was special: Jeremy - a plumber approximately 34 years old, very smart and with a great life story, we talked a lot even within the ship (we will tell soon). It was almost midnight, the cold began to tighten. We were already hungry and after nearly 3 hours late, finally got put Tana na raft. Next step was to look for something to eat, since with the long delay in the exchange of ships could not eat anything. We had luck! The snack bar was about to close and you then saw our guys hungry and offered us two free sandwiches! Partimos para dormir nos espaços que tínhamos reservado.

We woke up the next day without haste, because this would be the day we would spend just on the ferry. We used to read a lot, write and play our favorite game of ships: One or! Hahaha. But one of the highlights of the crossing was able to chat with other passengers and watch the beautiful landscape of mountains of snow, glaciers, birds dived for fish, addition of small villages that were outside the channel Inside Passage, surrounded by pine. Foi nesse dia que pudemos conhecer melhor a história do Jeremy.

Reading, listening to music, resting…

The conversation began with him only the night boarding in Juneau through simple (and practical people costumeira) curiosity that Tanajura woke them. “Diesel hein?! Legal! …What kind of brakes you use? …This cool bumper! What kind of material did you use? …In how many inches you raised her?"These, Among many other questions showed that Jeremy knew about off-road. Actually he gave us a lesson. It, em moments, showed us the journals in off-road he signed and photos of your darling! By 4×4 yellow that looked like a bigfoot so high! Jeremy was a plumber and in his spare time took her 4×4 to "play" (As he spoke) mud in the interior of Oregon, where he grew up and where his parents and siblings still living. Jeremy still in boarding Tanajura gave us, also, a lesson on the cities there Inside Passage. Told us about the size of major cities and the "fight" between environmental policy, politicians and residents who were divided in opinion create a road that would connect Juneau (Alaskan capital to do) the rest of the continent. It turns out that Juneau is a small town surrounded by high mountains and glaciers and has no roads that cut and allow the city to more easily "connected with the rest of the world". If on one hand this would impact the environment, the rich nature of the region and also its "status" of small and harmonious village; second, its residents have other options out there, This would represent also an alternative to the ferry (such that we were getting) and the small airport in the city - by the way, both much more expensive costs to exit and enter the city. So, By this connection unless something practical and trivial, costs of city life are quite high, mainly with basic issues like food, uma vez que tudo chega ou de balsa ou de avião.

Conversation with Jeremy

And the conversation continued with Jeremy on the boat. He told us how his routine was working there in the region and behaved like the union to which he belonged. Reported on labor relations between companies, union and professional technical level, as ele. Muito interesting, because we know a little of the organization of these relations, their pay levels, advantages and disadvantages to each party involved, especially when compared to what happens in Brazil, where the demand for skilled labor is increasingly scarce. It could be an alternative model for us, but need to be well adapted, because workers and unions would be too beholden to corporate interests, sem muita flexibilidade e com altos riscos em situações de crise no país.

But the subject that Jeremy was more sensitive in discussing, and we most alongamos, was abortion. Although the subject is very controversial (not the whole world, by the way), Jeremy stated their opinions on this, about how he saw the interference of the State and also the theme on how this interference can impact and shape the thinking of American society. Jeremy still married to 15 years and he and his wife tried a son when he still had 16, but the baby died in the womb of his wife. The following year tried again and this time they had their first child. Other attempts have occurred and Jeremy and his wife lost more 1 or 2 children of miscarriage before reaching the number of 4 sons who have now. The losses rocked much to him and his wife who have studied the issue enough. Today Jeremy asks very lucid state intervention in the American health, once there is support and funding abortion methods and a disregard with respect to poor people with serious illnesses or even terminally ill (something that was not the first time we hear). He also spoke about the issue of the use of weapons in the country and how he sees a reversal of values ​​in society and in education as a whole. Jeremy sought religion a few years ago and now their daughters are missions to help communities at risk in countries of South America and Africa. Truly an amazing life story and that greatly moved us and made us think hard!

O barco prosseguia e a paisagem do lado de fora era mesmo exuberante.

Glaciers in the landscape

Observation deck of the ferry

At the end of the second day docked in Ketchikan, stop where Jeremy and descend, how we would get 2 hours standing laser, he invited us to see the car he had built with his own hands! We waited in a cafe near the port and in a few minutes he returned with his wife and with the car so we knew. The vehicle was actually a contraption, all modified, with a suspension that left much louder than a normal car, cutouts on the hood for engine breathing, current support for the driver get up, all designed to the smallest detail. Too bad the time was short and soon had the fire to voltarmos the boat, mas antes o Jeremy fez questão de orar por nós e pedir bênçãos para o nosso retorno à parte sul do continente.

We with Jeremy, your wife and your car!

According to changes made to the Jeremy

We returned to the boat for our last game of Uno. 23h was almost crying when a man passed by the ship's restaurant where we played our partidinhas: “There are some nice Northern Lights out there!” (Northern Lights is what they call the Aurora Borealis). And off we went running to the top where there was a ferry deck open for viewing from view. No wonder the amazement of the man as they are unusual cases of Aurora here in southern Alaska. Why E? In a simplistic way, and since we are not scientists, We can explain the Aurora as follows: O Sun, Alem de luz, also emits charged particles in space a lot of energy. These particles as they approach the Earth are "absorbed" by our atmosphere and displaced towards the poles of the planet (due to the magnetic attraction of the poles). Thus these particles collide with atoms of Earth (Oxygen mainly, we breathe, and Nitrogen) generating a chemical process in which releases light. Why the lights emitted by this collision of particles can only be seen near the poles of the Earth! Since the light emitted by the sun is stronger than the light emitted by these particles, Aurora can only be seen at night, with clear skies, cloudless. So, on a clear day, The later, less influence of city lights and closer to the poles you are, will be easier to see Aurora. Normally this combination occurs closer to winter, where the nights are longer and the weather (in the case of Alaska) but e seco, without influence of clouds. So, only very strong solar flares are able to allow it to be viewed as a place "far" Polo, where as there were! Something unusual happened! Eita fate, hein!!!

Aurora borealis giving greenish sky

Coincidence or not, this was our last night here in Alaska, because the next day already atracaríamos in Canada. The parade here in Ketchikan with Jeremy was, officially, Our last stop on the territory of our first goal (Alaska) and marks the beginning of a new phase: the descent into Ushuaia, Land of Fire, ou chamada também de O Fim do Mundo.

Fresh air to come. And the journey continues!

Want to see more photos of our trip? Click here!

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