Ficha 4 × 1

Date: 04/10/2012 à 07/10/2012

Saímos of: Denali National Park, AK

Destination: Haines Borough, Stopping in Anchorage AK, AK por 2 noites.

Distance: 239 miles from Denali to Anchorage and 756 miles from Anchorage to Haines (sleeping with a stop in Tok).

Travel time: Denali – Anchorage: 6:30 hours, including stop for lunch. Anchorage – Haines,,en,great service and best cost-benefit Haines,,pt,It has been presented on Broadway,,pt,We miss a museum to tell a bit of local history,,pt,and more options to eat,,pt,depending on the geographical location next to the former Soviet Union,,pt,located in an area that is a major tourist hub of the region,,pt,group that occupied the region in ancient times,,pt,allowing access to several other cities in the region,,pt,Besides having one of the largest populations in the world eagles,,pt,7th / Oct would be the Thanksgiving holiday of Canadian neighbors,,pt,comparisons aside,,pt,We realized that even,,pt: 16:30 hours, divided em 2 excerpts: 1) Anchorage – Took: 4:30 hours roadside; 2) Took – Haines: 12 hours, incluindo paradas para almoço e combustível.

Path: The first section was done in AK-3 S / George Park Highway, while the second part was divided into various roads, with beautiful scenery (AK-1 N; Ak-2 And where we come in Canda; Alaska Hayway novamente; e Haines Hayway, Which brings us back to the United States).

Where to sleep: In Anchorage were two nights at the hotel Extended Stay, to update pending. Already on the way to Haines, in the city of Tok, we slept in our tent, in the parking lot of a roadside hotel, while in Haines, ficamos as três noites na nossa barraca no camping Camper Park já que a temperatura estava mais sob controle.

What eat different: Overdose of Thai food. Still on the Road, arriving in Tok, we had our first Thai meal in a trailer for a nice couple. If ever there someone passer, find a sticker shipment 4×1. Já em Haines, almoçamos by 3 vezes no Chilkat Bakery Restaurant, a delightful restaurant with Thai food, ótimo serviço e melhor custo-benefício de Haines.

Tire cheio: The coexistence between man and the bear. The Chilkat river fishing is an activity that is shared, where men and bears are seen almost side by side. Moreover, assitimos a fun musical (que já foi apresentado na Broadway), with actors and local production!

Tire murcho: Nothing very relevant. Sentimos falta de um museu que contasse um pouco da história local, e de mais opções para comer.

HAINES - A Little place in the Middle of Nothing, Full of Surprises Good

"Often, entitulamos untamable beasts like bears, always putting them responsibility for any attack, when in fact we are often, men, we do not respect the space and their habitat. Em Haines, conclude that living in harmony between men and bears can, is just a question of limits. Unlike everything we read and hear, there men and bears share the same space in search of the same food. "

After intense and rich life experience in Denali Wilderness, and before we arrive em Haines, passed through Anchorage, largest city in the state of Alaska, approximately 300.000 thousand inhabitants, ie you love to 40% the entire population of the state, also known as "The Last Frontier". Its development was mainly due to the airline industry, since it has the third busiest cargo airport in the world. Moreover, the United States maintains two major military bases in Anchorage since the Cold War, em função da localização geográfica próxima à antiga União Soviética. Our passage there lasted 2 days, and was very helpful in putting day as pending in site update, laundry and revision of 20,000 km of Tanajura. Since they do not manufacture the Frontier diesel in U.S., they did not have the correct oil filter, então foi a hora de entrar em ação nosso estoque de peças reservas que havíamos comprado no Brasil para situações como essa.

ToDO left behind, we rumo Haines, a town of 2.500 inhabitants which has a rich history and natural diversity, localizada em uma area que é um importante pólo turístico da região, known as inside passage, a gorgeous sea route which will have a detailed description in the next post. The town's name came after a mission and a school commissioned by a Chilkat (grupo que ocupava a região nos tempos mais remotos), as a way of honoring the chairman of the committee that raised funds for the construction work, in 1884. But the region has undergone a change during the most important years of 1898 and 1899, due to the gold rush (golden rush). The main road so far called Dalton's trail allowed the gold and supplies were directed towards the region of Yukon, which increased its importance in the region. But, after the construction of the railroad White Pass and Yukon, que permitia o acesso a diversas outra cidades da região, increased competition and the economy experienced a slight decline. Currently, tourism is the main attraction of the city. Além de possuir uma das maiores populações de águias do mundo (bald eagles – that eagle which is the symbol of the U.S.), fishing also attracts numerous visitors to the region. Moreover, Summer in the city is also very popular for outdoor activities, como rafting e trilhas.

We arrived very late in Haines, on Thursday, around 23:00 hours, tired , starving and without a place to sleep. We try to feed logo lombriga, eating a pizza in a pub, where we gather information about the campsites city. We searched for almost an hour, unsuccessfully, until we decided to ask a police officer who should have been suspicious of something, so many times we spent in the station deserted street. We followed his car to get a camping not allowed access to cars. So, He took us to the camping Camper Park, where we stayed for three days, bem protegidos da friagem e com banheiro um pouco precário.

The city was "full" because on Monday, dia 7/Out seria o feriado de ação de graças dos vizinhos canadenses. Em Every place that íamos, greetings of welcome were given to siblings of border. The first thing we did the next day was going to the visitor center, where we were very well received by the friendly American lady who gave us tips of interesting activities in the city. We left eager for the main attraction of the city, or rio Chilkat, which had already been indicated by other friends expeditioners. In River, handheld devices with fishermen, both local and tourists, go in search of food and leisure. As we approached the river we can understand why its popularity. The smell of fish could be felt inside the car with the windows closed such a quantity of salmon crossing the river. As we said in the post from Seattle, salmon ascend back to the river to spawn and die, after having spent most of his life at sea. To fish, people wore special clothes to withstand the icy water, since there fishing is traditionally done in the water, often through the modality “fly-fishing”.

Besides the traditional fishermen, various birds like the bald eagle (American Bald Eagle) and Gaivotas, adorned the river view. But all that jumble of cars and tourists were there to see a third type of fisherman, "Or friend Urso", more accustomed to the cold water in the region. They crossed the river with a smile on your face, regardless of the temperature, in search of the best spot to catch their prey. They were near the rocks, Using its sharp teeth to separate the skin, interestingly is the part they like best. In another particular situção, drove slowly (alga em throne of 20km / h) observing the landscape, breathing the air with open windows when, to our surprise a grizzly bear appeared in our window, the 2 meters away. This was not the greatest, but it was close we've ever seen, not to mention the surprise factor. We were completely unresponsive, they can not even take picture of this scene. But there were many opportunities. We also saw a bear 3 meters from the car, sniffing and rubbing on a metal plate, completely hipinotizado, what made us think that some fisherman might have cleaned salmon over there. Indeed, stand there looking at the bridge this huge beast look docile, so docile that makes you want to move your hand, sharing the space with the man was a truly amazing feeling. Oftentimes, entitulamos untamable beasts like bears, always putting them responsibility for any attack, when in fact we are often, men, we do not respect the space and their habitat. Em Haines, conclude that living in harmony between men and bears can, is just a question of limits. Unlike everything we read and hear, lá os homens e o ursos dividem o mesmo espaço em busca do mesmo alimento.

During our stop at the visitors center, we were informed that there would be a special event in town that weekend. A play called Oklahoma, a musical one day for a staged on Broadway, but with local actors and production. We went to buy tickets for the afternoon in a bookstore, where we discover that the daughter of the owner of the bookstore, I was in the store would be a part of the actresses. When they were 19:15, We were at the stage door, 15 minutes before starting the play. The seats were spacious, Standard size of the American view of the stage and was good from anywhere in the small amphitheater. We got there, no pretense for the three-hour show that would ahead. When the play began, soon realized that nobody was there professional. But amateurism brought a bounty of different jokes ready, was a joke natural, where the actor was smiling along with the audience. An older lady, along with the couple secondary, made of single piece good for a big surprise. Gradually the laughs were coming and infecting everyone present. Comparações aparte, the costumes, scenarios and the production as a whole were great, given the size of the city. Perhaps as a matter of expectations or indeed the quality of the piece, o fato é que saímos de lá descontraídos e satisfeitos com o investimento.

In addition to the outdoor attractions, Haines has a museum / workshop where huge wooden totem poles are made by hand. It is an attempt to reproduce the indigenous art, já que a grande maioria das obras originais foi sendo degradada com o tempo.

On Saturday night, went back to the same pub that we had eaten pizza, the first day. This time the atmosphere was much more crowded and lively. As Brazilian, football lovers, Gruden at the geek table (or pebolim) almost all night, where laughter and screams were packaged beer by alaskiana. As it was our last night in Alaska, decided to step out in style. We asked a song and sing and dance on the runway karaoke pub. As soon as the first verses came, others joined us on the trail packed by hit Twist and shout.

Shortly before embarcarmos the ferry to Prince Huppert, still had time to grab a 18km road that led us to a view of the Davidson Glacier, mais uma experiência agra1dável nesse formidável lugarejo.

For more photos from our visit to Haines, click here!

The post Haines - A Little place in the Middle of Nothing, Full of Surprises Good appeared first on 4x1.

Date: 28/09/2012 à 30/09/2012

Saímos of: Coldfoot, AK

Destination: Denali National Park, AK

Distance: 590 km

Travel time: 12 hours, pulling near 2 hour stop in Fairbanks for dinner and relax, and other stops along the way

Path: We take back the Dalton Highway, até a Elliot Highway, we dropped again to Fairbanks. From, followed by George Park Highway to the entrance of Denali National Park, próxima à cidade de Healy.

Where to sleep: Chão quentinho e gostoso da agência de correios do parque. After spending a tremendous cold camping in the camping area, mail (post office) with the lobby open 24 horas foi a solução para não congelarmos durante a noite.

What eat different: King crab (carangueijo) and more natural salmon! We take our passage to savor the culinary delights even more in Alaska 49th State Pub & Restaurant.

Tire cheio: The ballet's magical Aurora Borealis! So after much anxiety and positive thinking, finalmente fomos premiados por um espetáculo de luzes no céu do Denali.

Tire murcho: Park partially closed! Unfortunately, could not pass the mile 30 do Denali, since the road was closed from then on for the winter season. We arrived about 10 dias atrasados.

Denali National Park - Amigo Urso, Magic Bus and the magic of the aurora

After unforgettable days in wilderness, We were treated to a light show as never seen before. The Denali is truly a special place, which, no doubt about it, já tem um espaço reservado para sempre em nossas lembranças.

After we reach the most northern point of our expedition, in the icy mountains of Atigun Pass, we headed south. We left the morning of Coldfoot toward the famous Denali National Park and Preserve. The park encompasses more than 25.000 km ² of montanhas, forests and lots of wildlife. Ali is also home to the highest mountain in North America, o gigante Mckinley, with 6.194 metros.

Monte Mckinley, postcard park

Even with all our efforts, I could not get the time to have the entire park open for visit. The roads that cross the Denali are fully flyable during the summer season, from the middle of May until September. From dai, with the arrival of cold and snow in the region, a good part of the park is closed to visitors. There is still the possibility to participate in a lottery to get visit Denali whole car a few days after the closure of roads, but it is very difficult to achieve, devido à intensa concorrência.

From mid-September, Denali closes part of their roads due to weather conditions

Snow White takes over the landscape

Happily, was not all bad we missed the date. A visit to Denali in the summer, from Mile 15, can only be made with a bus available from park management. This runs regularly through the points of interest along the 91 miles (146 km) of highway cortam the park. Os visitantes podem descer e subir nas paradas que mais tiverem interesse. But, not allowed to use their own vehicle during this period. In other words, se chegássemos a tempo nunca poderíamos rodar com a Tanajura no interior do parque. Isso deixaria nossa parceira bastante sentida, tadinha! Then, in the end, although we found the only open until Denali mile 30 (48 km), had the pleasure of bringing us Tana, o que tornou a visita ainda mais especial.

Tanajura happy to visit the park

It was late evening when we passed the park entrance. In the darkness, we come to the only campground that was not closed for the winter season, already near the park entrance. Or was quite organized camping, with placeholders, tables and restrooms. And it was free. There was still some travelers out there, most of them in their gigantic RV (or RVs – Recreational Vehicles).

The temperature hovered around 0 º C, As we prepared to spend the night. We had not eaten dinner and there was no hope of finding something open at that hour in the vicinity. That's when we decided to cook a soup that we bought on the way. The task became very difficult with the cold and icy wind, who would not let anything in our toaster oven warmed pot. Suddenly, solution! Remember one a curious recommendation on the official website of the park. There is a post office (Post Office) in the Denali, que tem o saguão aberto 24 hours. The message indicated that it was the perfect place for those who wanted to escape the cold a little park. We did not know exactly what they meant by this, but we have seen this recommendation the only way to get a meal that night. We brought the utensils inside, juntamente com a nossa mesa desmontável e preparamos uma sopinha gostosa em uma temperatura agradável dentro do post office.

Dinner toasty inside the post

We think up to spend the night over there too, even in the lobby, but we decided to test our resistance to cold of Alaska. For? Before we had even gotten in the mail! We were beaten during the night! Nem mesmo o aquecedor que compramos para tentar ajudar deu conta conforme a madrugada caía e o termomêtro baixava ao negativo.

Icy morning in camping

Despite the cold, agreed to forward the following day, when we finally take a look at what the park has to offer. We went through Murie Science and Learning Center, an information center that functioned as the visitor center in the winter season, since the others were closed. We know the trails and learn about the park and the animals we could find on the way, antes de partir para a natureza selvagem.

Snow-capped mountains adorn the landscape

We decided to complete the miles by car possible (even miles 30), enjoying the weather was relatively open (at least more open than in previous days). The snow already took care of the landscape and the mud road from Mile 15. We were in no hurry, enjoying the mountain scenery and the animals that gave time or another faces. No horizon, who appeared was the giant Mount Mckinley, postcard park. His name is controversial. The natives used to call him alaskianos Denali (“the high one” ou o grande na linguagem Athabaska), but at the end of the nineteenth century, o dono de uma mineradora na região, gave the name to Mount Mckinley, as a form of political support to then President William Mckinley. Although this continues to be the official name of the mountain, o povo do Alasca ainda prefere manter as tradições e chama-lo de Denali mesmo.

View of Mount McKinley, or Denali, as the native

We reached the mile 30, where a gate prevented to follow the path. This stop has a beautiful view of Rio Teklanika, who became famous in the movies by preventing the passage of Christopher McCandless Alexander Supertramp or back to civilization in the film Into the Wild (“Into the Wild”). Para quem não conhece, o filme conta a história de um jovem que decidiu romper seus laços com a sociedade e ter uma experiência pura na natureza. Este seguiu seu rumo justamente ao Denali, where never returned. Remembered the film at all times within the park. Until today we discussed whether he had some kind of influence this crazy idea to go to Alaska by car. The Teklanika saw that there was not even the mighty river movie, since in winter the water freezes again and just get volume with the melting snow in the summer. We proved that McCandless would probably not have problems to cross it a few months later. For those not familiar with the movie, recommendation is! Very good!

Teklanika frozen river in autumn

We were taking some photos in our back, when a friendly park ranger pulled up beside us and asked if we had seen any wildlife. “Have you seen any wildlife?”, asked with a smile. We stopped to really think and had seen very little that day. Mas Little did we know it was for a short time…

Photo stop at road

We followed the road when, suddenly, demos in front with a giant bear grizzly!!! It was right there, in the road, walking without worries. If I were a cartoon would probably be singing a song of those very happy. He was shocked to see Tanajura and ran straight to the snow. Happily, after a few seconds, Bear thought twice and decided to keep walking around the track. He followed closely by the Tanajura few meters, like good friends. It was chilling to see the bear so closely!

Our friend was startled by the bear Tanajura…

…fled to snow…

…looked suspiciously…

…giggled…

…and again run alongside the Tanajura!

And crossed the river to swim!

As we still had some time to daylight, decided to make a track to finish the ride. We stopped at mile 15, to the path that surrounds the Savage River. At the visitor center told us that was where we would have more chances to see wildlife. With the bear we saw nearby, we do not leave the car without pepper spray in our hands. Bears may look cute and cuddly, but from solving up, no one hold. We followed the directions of the leaflets and were talking loudly the whole way, to draw attention to our presence. Bears do not like to be surprised. Increase the volume even more after seeing the footprints in fresh snow, that in order not bear were. No fim, no luck (or random) by ali, and not come across any animal. Mas já estávamos bastante satisfeitos com a nossa experiência com o grizzly horas antes.

Savage River, where we made our tracks

The trail followed the river bank

Coyote footprint (probably) na neve

We left the park in the late afternoon into the city for dinner Healy. On the way, we saw a restaurant that looked nice, the 49th State Pub & Restaurant. There was a lot of movement, so we decided to take a look to see what he was so special. That's when knotted in our heads. O ônibus mágico de Christopher McCandless (the film Into the Wild - Into the Wild) paradinho was in front of us! But what he was doing there?? Should not you be in the woods?? After a few minutes of confusion, find the answer on restaurant menu. The bus that was there was what was used in the filming of the movie. It works as a sort of museum, contando a história de McCandless a partir de cópias de fotografias e anotações, que ele mesmo registravam ao longo de sua viagem.

Com or magical ônibus Trombamos!

If that was the real talk, acreditaríamos!

The setting of the film and pictures with the story of Chris

When we came to Alaska to seek various information on Stampede Trail, which leads to the BUSES became famous in cinema. But, found that the trail is not usually done and is still very dangerous. Very few guides know the path, it would take a few days in the forest to be completed. Some people by the way, lost in the park or even died trying to complete it. Even the official website of Christopher McCandless, maintained by his family, recomenda às pessoas que não façam a trilha. The motive for the bus to be there the film was exactly this. The restaurant owner says he bought the bus from the producers of the film so that he was available for people to take their pictures without risking their lives for them. Ele you sensibilizou with the case u European tourist who drowned in the river Teklanika trying to reach BUSES. Moreover, was curious to see how all local criticize the stupidity of Chris in their decisions. In the end, To our surprise (and joy!), without hope, we got our picture with the magic bus!

Everyone is risked in the pose!

After a very hearty dinner, com e direito a King Crab King Salmon (a delight!), headed for another cold night in the park. Only this time the thermometer already marked negative temperature. If we had spent the night before cold, now imagine. That's when the post office again appeared alongside save our lives. "Today there is no escape, 'll sleep on the floor even!!”, think. And we did, until a lady who wanted to check his mailbox awoke in the morning. But okay, oddly enough, was a good (and quentinha) noite are!

Carangueijo (King Crab) and salmão (King Salmon) do Alasca! Like Sem!

The Courier heated invites us to spend the night!

Walk comfortably on the floor of the post office

Another day in the park, took the Tanajura for a walk in search of wildlife. This time we saw our friend bear close, but some appeared in other forest. Moose and reindeer also gave the guys once in a while. We passed the kennels, where trained dogs to sleds made our visit to the party. All Huskies eles alaskianos, um mais bonito que o outro.

Husky Alaskiano sorrindo for Photos

Watchful eyes!

Baita moleza!

We did another track in the Savage River, this time up the mountain for a beautiful view over the park. The walk lasted about an hour and a half and had the right rises somewhat tilted and Ice. Mas a vista vale o esforço.

Up to the view from the top

Quite cold and snow on the way

Vista Trail

The weather had improved compared to previous days, being that the heavy clouds that covered the sky for most of the time had dissipated mostly. It was our hope! In recent days, despite all positive thinking, the weather was closed, preventing the phenomenon that we could see more in the region urged, A Aurora Boreal. Throughout our journey, from or tied or Alasca Yukon, we were looking for this wonder, mas sem sucesso até então. Para aumentar nossa expectativa, o Denali costuma ser um ótimo local para observar a explosão de cores no céu durante a noite.

Happy with the open time!

From that day was nothing, it was now or never!!! The sky finally opened, Aurora forecasts for good, darn cold (say the Aurora appears most strongly in the cold days) and we wake. We were in the car waiting for the show. We would be as long as was!! That's when we saw a spot shy away from the sky. Was that as the famous Aurora?? We got out of the car to check. We were almost in when a disappointing faixo Green crossed the skies. He moved from side to side as if dancing. When we realized, the lights were dancing everywhere. Green, purple, pink, colors variavam! Ficamos ecstatic, admiring this wonder! Hard to explain in words and pictures the feeling, but it was as if something were happening really magical. And curiously, the moon was more crowded than ever, perhaps the brightest of the whole trip. Em theory, the full moon like that should disturb our vision of dawn, but we prefer to think that she just left the most beautiful scenery!

Light show at Northern Lights!

Green takes over the sky!

It does not seem real!

The moon shone brightly in the sky

But cheia, impossible!

Our days in Denali could not finish better way. The Aurora came to crown one of the most intense experiences and different that the expedition had hitherto. We go on, there is still much to explore!

To see more photos of Denali, click here!

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