Date: 17/11/2012 à 20/11/2012

Path: Always follow the Carretera Federal 1 (Mexico 1) always guiding us through the boards and local guidelines. The roads are, largely, two-way, mas em muito bom estado.

Top of Baja California!

Some seek to "Baja" for its perfect waves on the west side (bathed by the Pacific) while others go kayaking, or nadam quietly, the numerous coves of its east side (bathed by the Sea of ​​Cortez). Many retired Americans and Canadians fleeing the harsh winter, further north on the continent, and drive their giant RV's (Recreational Vehicles or as we call in Portuguese: Trailers) for up to camp 6 months in one of the most beautiful and quiet beaches in the central part, or more to the north of the peninsula. And the richness of its fauna allows anyone to swim with sea lions, whale sharks and many colorful fish; or simply spotting dolphins, Streaks, gigantic gray whales or enjoy the agile pelicans giving great dives in search of dinner. However, despite the fame he receives for its beaches and nightlife, the Mexican peninsula of Baja California hides, inside, Amazing traces of prehistoric life that can be accessed by trails of high or low complexity. All this natural wealth is extended by more than 1.200km (north / sul) this is the second longest peninsula in the world! And despite the short strip of land (under 250 km) linking the Gulf of California (to leste) the Pacific Ocean (to west), high and colorful canyons (with peaks up to 3.100m) com together giant cacti, spread across the arid terrain in the middle of the peninsula. The Expedition was keen to cross the peninsula from end to end. And it all started from the north…

Os ágeis pelicanos que mergulham ao longo da Baja atrás de peixes.

Ahh!!! How was nice to wake up again with the view to the beach! The Tanajura was already missing try the taste of salt on your fittings again That was one of the facilities and "luxuries" that there would in the coming days by Baja California. Our entry in the peninsula was characterized by Tijuana, the largest city of the Mexican state of Baja California (BC) and our first night there was close, a RV Park, pras front "Rosarito". Os RV Park (estacionamento of RVs – ou Trailers) are very common along the Baja on behalf of retired Americans who spend months there with their "homes peddlers" every winter. Thus, era fácil encontrarmos um lugar para encostar e Tana e montarmos nossas barracas.

And after months, wake up again sandy beach! (Playas de Rosarito, BC – Mexico)

After months of suffering cold U.S., get up early to enjoy the first rays of sun. We devote the early hours of the morning to enjoy the moment here in Playas de Rosarito. Now one of us sat down to read the oceanfront, sometimes dressed up some things inside the messy Tanajura. We also take a walk to the beach to the nearby fishing village, morning to witness the sale of fish fresh out of small boats. Curious foi ver, yield logo, many locals already eating fried fish even combining! A conversation with the curious vigilant and a little game of basketball followed by a "ball control", there on the court's RV Park, ended our morning. Era hora de seguir mais ao sul.

In the background a fishing village in Playas de Rosarito, BC – Mexico

We started toward Ensenada already early afternoon. But before we stopped for lunch in a simple restaurant, with chairs and plastic dishes, ali downtown Rosarito Beach. It is very common in northern Baja restaurants in the style of traditional restaurants interior Northeast: muita simplicidade and kindness, and good food, farta e barata! And nós, é clear, eat one of the dishes we liked best so far in Shipping: quesadillas as Marlin. But we also experience two other very traditional in Mexico integer: Fish tacos (fish) and Shrimp! But it was not only the restaurants that they referred us to the Brazilian Northeast. Besides the small coastal towns and fishing villages, the visual changes abruptly still a few miles from the coast. The roads that cut through much of the BC run inside the peninsula in a dry and stony ground, onde huge cacti with humble misturam casinhas of alvenaria. A reality that we witnessed in northeastern backlands. The only difference is that this kind of image and dried cactus is mostly seen in our country, for at least 100, 150 miles from coast, while here in BC are seen less than 10km!

Towards the Ensenada road skirting the coast begins…

…and in a few miles the visual changes abruptly!

O comércio simples mas muito caprichado ao longo da Baja Califórnia.

View from inside the restaurant simple in Baja

By nightfall, the flat tire of this passage: excited by a rogue salesman who said, "To have a real experience of Baja", NON could let go of the traditional nightclubs Papas&Beers, buy our tickets in advance (only "guarantee"). It happens that, Fate of, or Papas&Beers is a great attraction for young Americans and Mexicans here in the region. But even being a Saturday, were in the low season and the fine structure of the bar remained almost empty all night, without running the main attractions. Yes… "Shot"…

The next morning we went to Ensenada. A turn in the centrinho already revealed that this was a city for American tourists: almost all prices were in dollars in catalogs, besides trinkets and crafts that were sold on the streets parallel to the beach. What saved, entanto not, was the beautiful and gigantic Mexican flag waving on the beachfront and interesting little square that, that Sunday afternoon, had a fair typical cuisine of the region and presenting local bandinhas. At bedtime we returned to where we had seen hours before putting a nice sunsets: a praia de San Miguel.

The huge Mexican flag em Cove, Baja California!

San Miguel was the place where he used to attend none other than Jim Morrison. Located at 11 km north of Ensenada, the beach is a major 'points’ surf across Baja California peninsula. Earlier we had watched some surfers catch the last waves while the sun set. And the next morning witnessed many of them taking their coffee, e prolongateing, even before the first waves of the morning. We camped right there in the parking lot of the beach. Along those surfers who mostly came from the U.S. state of California and had "stretched" up there in search of good waves and heat Mexican. To tell the truth, the heat was not so much, because as we were in winter, Pacific winds early, and in the late afternoon, are quite cumbersome. But the serenity and visual site justified, and very, the constant visits of the star of The Doors!

Or by em-do-sol San Miguel, beach appreciated by the star of The Doors: Jim Morrison

The modern houses on the beach in San Miguel, near Ensenada – BC, Mexico

O café da manhã na praia de San Miguel olhando os surfistas que logo cedo encaravam as águas geladas do Pacífico.

It is worth mentioning that the roads of Baja phenomena have, some sights and attractions apart…

Still there by the San Miguel, more precisely the 40 miles south of Ensenada, There is a curious fact of nature. The sudden movement of the tide, jammed against a hole in a rock wall, triggers a long sea and surf sequential throwing jets of water up to 30m tall! This spectacle of nature is known as La Bufadora! We take the vibe site and sat there for nearly an hour reading, or chatting. The sun and mild weather along with the beautiful landscapes of the Baja constantly afforded moments of reading, paz e reflexões.

A wave approaches to great effect…

…from “explosion” da La Bufadora, that can reach up to 30m in height!

La Bufadora watching expedition in Baja California

At the beginning of Baja California were moving slowly. Because, still at around 16:30 the sun would lie on the Pacific and, do not take it to the road at night, drove very little. We decided to spend the night not too "far" away, em San Quintín.

The road from San Miguel to San Quintin was changing landscapes. We crossed Oras trade and rustic poor encrusted vegetation in arid huge cacti and stones, now the distance we could see the green fields and vast vineyards and wineries of Baja California. And even more surprises were to come down the road!

Leaving the Bufadora, noise in San Quintin

Cottingham simple and colorful along the road

Crossing the “interior” the Baja terrain again becomes arid with cactus and boulders!

Um the huge cacti along the road

Fazendas vinícolas contrastam com o relevo árido ao longo da estrada.

It happens that, although we arrived minutes before sunset and could not see much of San Quintin, have slept there got us excellent recommendations on Baja. The friendly owner of the Hotel and RV Park Cielito Lindo, along with his brother, filled us with recommendations of what to visit! And the next morning, yield logo, partimos.

Tanajura also wanted to enjoy the sunset in the Pacific – San Quintin, BC – Mexico

Sunset in the Pacific in San Quintin

Strictly follow its recommendations, continue under: go south of San Quintin until you see the light poles that, between bone km 47 and 48, cross the road and continue along the right side toward the ocean. Perfect! We take a very bumpy dirt road following the lampposts. Rises, falls, holes, more holes, falls somewhat more, to Tanajura trepidava that Só, and suddenly we could see a flat ground with sea sand and a huge hole, near a cliff. Within this huge hole and entered the sea, along with it, also hinder some families of sea lions who enjoyed that unique little beach in the middle of the huge cliff. The peace of the place was so that we could hear clearly the "barking" of sea lions that seemed commenting to each other about those 5 intrusos que tiravam fotos deles.

Tanajura on one side, the other nodes, and sea lions in the large crater near San Quentin

Dali, we cut the interior of the peninsula east. We would finish that pass through northern Baja California with our first visit to the Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of ​​Cortez). Accustomed to see the beautiful sunset Pacific, Now we would have the privilege of seeing him also born at sea. OS, desalination vez, no Mar de Cortez.

Final day na Bahia de Los Angeles – this time not in the Pacific but in the Sea of ​​Cortez (Gulf of California) – BC, Mexico

The Baja California offers amazing visuals. It is the place where you can see the sun goes down in the Pacific…

…born and the Sea of ​​Cortez. (one of the most amazing sunset of the trip: em Bahia de Los Angeles, BC – Mexico)

And if arriscássemos a poetic description of what we witness here in the Gulf of California would say that… the sun rises from the sea and logo colors of red and orange sky. And in his rise slowly hides behind the hills of one of several peninsulas and islands, que se encontram dispersas na serena imensidão da Bahía de Los Ángeles.

And those were just our first day in the Baja!

and the journey continues by Baja…

Want to see more photos of the passage through northern Baja California? Then click here!

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Date: 16/11/2012 à 16/11/2012

Path: Tomamos a rodovia I-5 S.

Magdalene gives us guidance toward the border between U.S. and Mexico

We headed south to San Diego in search of a cape for the new cell Gustavo. Two days ago he had bought the newly launched model of Nokia to replace your old appliance. Few shops in the world would have that cape, but, sure, ali nos EUA nós encontraríamos.

That was how we left behind the beauty of the rivers, vouchers, mountains and lakes U.S.. Where animals roam freely in parks very well organized in a wild nature still remaining. We left behind the comforts and conveniences of a country very well structured. Organized, but, maybe too much.

The country serves as a model for many coisas, as the excellent educational system or the richness of their musical styles, seems to be lacking a historical legacy alive in their urban centers. After all, unless a district or other, was, some of us, the impression that many of American cities seem prefabricated. As if they could be sold on the shelves of a Tok Stok or any IKEA and kit containing a fastfood chains within; como num 'Lego', only ready to be fitted. So simple to set up as it is today to find a motel, a Wal-mart or a McDonald's along one of its vast highways.

We continued further south by Interstate 5 and the Magdalene not only show us the missing 17 minutes to arrive to Tijuana, we would never imagine that lend estávamos cross country. Signs pointed exits and returns to neighborhoods still only within the U.S.. Strange, it gradually changed the visual horizon. It was as if they wanted to hide this vast hill, with thousands of houses stuck together, that every moment seemed closer. But it was impossible to hide, because we were about to cross nothing less than the world's busiest border!!! It was only near the border that a big sign announcing: were entering Mexican territory!

A large sign near the Mexican flag

We walked a few hundred meters after the board and soon entered a strange walled and short road that separated the two countries. This way we played in a huge barrier over 8 watchtowers that resembled the toll highway Immigrants (which connects the city of São Paulo Santos). Ali was the Mexican customs, where well-armed guards randomly chose some vehicles for review prior to entry into Mexico. And of course our "discreet" friend was picked Tanajura. Some questions were asked and, soon discovered that we were Brazilians, the smile sprouted on their faces. Easily liberados, we go forward another few meters and, To our surprise, já conduzíamos quietly peel ruas Tijuana. But wait! Something was wrong, not?! You must remember that, at each border, low we gave in our documents we left the country, carimbávamos and passports in the country of entry. And still had permission to ride the Tanajura… aquilo ali tinha sido muito fácil e estávamos sem nenhum carimbo ou autorização.

The confusing and busy border between San Diego (USA) and Tijuana (Mexico)

But that was it, both had been easy pass to the Mexican side, as we, Fate of, have made the processes of exit and entry in each country. We explain:

As mentioned, that border is super busy in both directions: Mexico no sense –> USA, There is the case with many Mexican workers who come early in the morning to work in San Diego, as the case of more affluent Mexicans who enjoy the rich neighbor to make purchases of clothing and electronics (more or less as many of us, Brazilian, usually do); already, meaning no U.S. –> Mexico, gringos crossing to Tijuana, in the Mexican state of Baja California called, looking for its beautiful beaches and its lively night parties. All, clear, a um preço muito acessível.

Thus, covenants and restrictions that we do not understand very well, permitem that residents of Tijuana(Mexico) and Southern California(USA) can stay in the neighboring country, up to 72 hours. It happens that, by our own ignorance or the lack of a more appropriate signaling by both countries, framed in the same right to cross freely. But as we would not be in Mexico for a few days only, precisávamos voltar – para um lugar que ainda não sabíamos onde – e fazer toda a documentação.

We had to return, but we were still "enjoying" those first few minutes again in Latin lands. A tasty seasoning of smoke emanated from a typical food being made here in the crowded, narrow streets of Tijuana. Signs advertising in Spanish gave us welcome, above all small and colorful brick houses – built next to each other. And a dance music emanating from bars and vehicles mingling with the voices of agitated hawkers dark skin… A scene that resembled a very difficult neighborhood of a large Brazilian metropolis. But after so many months in 2 do only rich continent, was good to be back to reality to which we have been accustomed to live! E Aquela Tijuana, who would know better after, was far from exaggerated description of some Americans and their media. A crass example of this exaggeration had last night right there in San Diego. A waitress at the restaurant where we had dinner, reached in recommending leave the car on the U.S. side and take a taxi to visit Tijuana. She said that our car would be stolen quickly by foreign board, and even that could even be stolen by Mexican police themselves! Tadinha, mal sabia ela da Expedição e que não haveria a menor chance da Tanajura não cruzar o México conosco.

The simplest roadside houses of Baja California Norte, few dozen miles south of Tijuana – Mexico

The ecstasy of being in Mexican lands, entanto not, lasted little. We took the first return toward the border in an attempt to find a customs that could guide us. It, suddenly, the surprise: there was a kilometric queue of cars to enter the U.S.! We, literally, blind. And amid the exhaustive queue, We were costumeiramente addressed by vendors, just because there are so numerous in number, we prenunciavam: a espera serial long. E faith! But 1 hour and 45 min then finally we reached the evil guards housed the U.S. Customs. After explaining our history (A summarized version of what is shipping and which internally nicknamed "the chat road"- The latter a pronounced finest portunhol! ) and about why we were reentering the U.S. mood improved. After a good many questions and weariness of 35 minutes guards gave low in U.S. system and released to move back to Mexico. We took a shortcut procedure at the border and we were soon back in watchtowers Mexican. Again welcome, explain the mistake this time and a friendly guard accompanied us for federal payments of fees Mexican tourism ($24,50 U.S. dollars per person) and the procedures for entering the country. Soon, in less than half an hour we were finally released! Just go missing in Mexican national bank branch, a few miles away, to do the procedures of Tanajura (for which we also had to pay $50 USD). We were hungry and friendly attendant showed us a local restaurant for supper. With plastic chairs and tables, a large flat bids passing football and friendliness of the waiters (especially when they discovered we were Brazilians) it's very tasty Chewin reminded us the typical simple restaurants in northeastern Brazil. As the waiter's suggestion we risk what would become one of the favorite dishes of the Expedition in Mexico: Quesadillas as Marlin (Blue Marlin Fish), delicacy very common here in Baja California. The warm and pleasant atmosphere of a Friday night called for a beer to accompany and celebrate the long-awaited entry into Mexican land!

Numerous vendors are the harbinger of that entering the U.S. is a very time consuming!

The wall that separates the modern San Diego's "underdeveloped" Tijuana is the perfect symbolism of separation between two realities physically so close, but as socially antagonistic. The large and constant flow of people through that border reveals the profound yet interdependent relationship that exists between these two nations. Whether through the daily migration of Mexican workers and students to the U.S. or goods and American tourists to Mexico. Be scared of living the bold 'coyotes'To carry people illegally in search of'American Way of Life'Or the voluptuousness of young Americans - in their 18 the 21 anos – que lotam a vida noturna mexicana em busca do ritmo latino e da liberdade de poderem beber antes da maioridade de seu país.

As for nós, we were sooo happy! Especially the receptivity of Mexicans over there.

We were back to the Latin America 'Open Veins’, as defined by Eduardo Galeano. Yes but still expresses joy, humility and spontaneity so peculiar to our people!

Elements and Hispanic Catholics (legacy of the colonial period) marcam a arquitetura das cidades mexicanas.

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