Date: 26/09/2012 a 27/09/2012

Saímos of: Fairbanks, Alaska

Final destiny: Most northern point of the Expedition 4×1: 68° 24,168 'Latitude Norte (north of the Arctic Circle and the town of Coldfoot - Alaska)

Total distance: 525 km

Travel time: 10 horas incluindo paradas.

Path: We left Fairbanks and soon caught the Dalton Highway rumo a Coldfoot.

Where to sleep: At home in a Norwegian Wiseman e no único “hotel” de Coldfoot.

What we eat good: Sanduíche of Salmão, near the river Yukon.

Filled Tire : Power reaches the Arctic Circle and experience the Tundra!

Tire murcho: O clima – que estava muito nublado – e o alto preço do “hotel” em Coldfoot.

"Of all the truly wild places remaining on earth, none is as majestic as the Arctic. Today, this unforgiving landscape has become almost impossible to be inhabited. But for families who live here, The Arctic is home. " (free translation of the narrative of actress Meryl Streep in the film 'To The Arctic').

The Alaska in the Arctic Circle

Agreed under the strong sun and dry Fairbanks, although the temperature rotated around 5 ° C, cold does not bother him so much. In the initial planning, when we left Sao Paulo, the idea was to go only up to Fairbanks, and from there begin to "descend". But after a visit to Museum of the North and read the posts and comments of Rodrigo and Ana (dispatch '1000 Every Day For America ') not resist the temptation to go meet one of the harshest environments and difficult to survive on Earth. Tínhamos to touch the Arctic!

We collect our tents and set up the breakfast right there in the supermarket parking lot Safeway. We left around 10am and immediately picked up one of the most isolated roads: the Dalton Highway.

The Dalton connects Elliot Highway (north Faibanks) to the town of Deadhorse (which actually is more like a village with a mere 50 permanent residents) and is the last stop before the oil fields of Prudhoe Bay, no Ocean Ártico! Therefore, Prudhoe Bay are considered (unofficially) the most northern point of the Pan-American Highway! Then, we set off in search of finding also the most northern point of our expedition!!!

Bruno pointing north at the beginning of the Dalton Highway!

A Dalton Highway, if Só, is an attractive part. The road is not paved in some sections due to excess snow (em good part of the year) and heavy trucks wearing track. So, many passages become a large puddle and even slippery, due to rain or ice on the runway. The Dalton was built to accompany the long pipeline (pipeline) coming out of the oil fields in Prudhoe Bay to Valdez direction, do not the Alaskan. Thus, besides truckers who work directly or indirectly for services related to the oil fields of Prudhoe Bay, only a few curious tourists or hunters face this relentless road to Arctic! But despite remote, Road receives daily flow of approximately 200 trucks and serves to support the maintenance of complex products that are specially made to withstand the harsh winter temperatures down to -50 ° C!

The pipeline adjacent to the Dalton Highway!

And so were we, slowly heading north. Near 3 and a half hours after leaving Fairbanks and almost 220 km percorridos, we crossed the Yukon River. That's when we decided to stop at one of the cafeterias rare road, Seated next to the river. We ate a delicious salmon burger sandwich with potato salad! Of course, we draw attention to other truck drivers who were there. After all, destoávamos in age and appearance of the rest of those experienced gentlemen with a gray beard and pale skin. One – that lunch with a younger boy, his companion work – came to our table wondering who were the owners of that black truck with plate São Paulo! "You really came from São Paulo far?!"Asked Mr., while pointing to where St. Paul was his young companion, a large world map hanging on the wall of the restaurant. "Yes sir!"- Respond contented. We all our script and he said that we were on the edge of the ideal time to go through that region. Conversation will, conversation comes, they recommended us to the following Atigun Pass, within Brooks Range (a mountain range just north of the Arctic Circle). We looked on the map where it was and we!

Upsidedown: A -Fairbanks; Show Arctic Circle; C -Coldfoot; D -Atigun Pass – ALASKA

The cloudy weather and the gradual decline of trees along the road (as we moved further north) gave a slightly morbid to visual. When, suddenly, we saw a family of grizzly bears (ourc brown) along the track! Os pobres ursos correram assustados da Tanajura provavelmente imaginando o que aquela “coisa” preta e gigante fazia ali em seu remoto território.

The purpose, is this territory that lies the tundra! (anyone remember her from school days?!) Located between positions 60 ° and 75 ° north latitude, tundra vegetation is a typically rasteira! Covered in ice much of the year or during the swampy soil 2 summer months in the region (since the low heat and low soil drainage slow to absorb the melting snow), what is most striking in the tundra is the fact not present trees!!! That's it, the predominant vegetation is moss, lichens and low shrubs that take advantage of maximum temperatures of 12 ° C in summer (The maximum is 12 ° C on the hottest days!!!) when an "explosion" of plant life. This "explosion" that allows some birds, hares, sheep, reindeer, bison and caribou to feed enough to face the long winter!

Our first and most impressive contact the tundra occurred in the Finger Mountain is an area along the Dalton Highway where, embedded in its center, There is a granite rock protruding finger-shaped (Finger Rock) that marks a major territories where the natives of Alaska hunted in the past. It was a visual of how those imagined a world without life. But while that seems dead, tundra to impress those few remaining living and lichens that cross our path before the arrival of the long and harsh winter…. The cold increased and the temperature was already below zero. Read the information boards that in ensinaram on the flora and fauna of the tundra (there near Finger Rock) and proceed by Dalton Highway rumo a Coldfoot.

A sheep posed for photo in the cold Arctic!

A Finger Rock, where for thousands of years Native hunters watched mammoths walking through the Tundra – em Finger Mountain, AK

Over a few tens of kilometers traveled and we got one of the most important milestones of the Expedition 4×1 yet: the board of the Arctic Circle!!! A light drizzle began to fall from that sky loaded as alerting us that we were entering one of the most exotic and untouched wildlife on Earth. Parallel to the equator, The Arctic Circle is one of 5 major circles of latitude on our planet and cuts Dalton Highway at position 66 ° 33 'north latitude! This cold zone has an average temperature of only 10 ° C during the warmer months; and all regions inside the circle have at least one day with 24 sunshine (summer) or sunless (no winter)!!! Therefore, over the territories north of the Arctic Circle may be severe with many animals and plants that inhabit. The most populous city of the Americas within the circle is the Arctic town of Barrow, no Alaska, approximately 4.000 people!

Expedition across the board the Arctic Circle on Dalton Highway, AK

Linh blue demarcating the Arctic Circle

Around 20h after more than 400Km and we got lots of pictures in Coldfoot! With only 10 permanent residents (this same, ten!!!), Coldfoot serves as a stop for truckers who flock to Prudhoe Bay. It, com along Wiseman (village next to Coldfoot), is the last option for housing before Deadhorse - E ai? Were surprised by the fact they only 10 people and some truckers in Coldfoot?! Well then imagine our reaction to seeing that in the midst of 5 trucks parked there we found a mini-van in Brazil!!! - We did not believe!! As there was possible at the end of North America, in a village containing less than that moment 40 people find a Brazilian couple who made an expedition with his sons novinhos from Santa Catarina! UNBELIEVABLE!! The Brazilian ford over the world!

Surprise in Coldfoot! O veículo dos brasileiros da Expedição 'Familia na Estrada'

A small Coldfoot, Alaska

Well, Coldfoot has only one hotel / restaurant and a petrol station and, then, the price of the "hotel" is a "dab" of 200 dollars for a room for two people! We talked with the owner, we dispatch, our budget constraint, etc.. e etc.. and after much insisting he offered us the price of family, arriving at the price of 100 dollars per room for two people. The price was still salty for us. So, follow toward the town of Wiseman hoping arrumarmos something at a better price. In 5 minute barrier in the village was founded around 1919 by miners and now has 7 houses and about 14 permanent residents. The first houses that we saw were empty and the snow began to fall hindering our vision amid the narrow streets and irregular Wiseman. After we ran a little and do not find the two places that there should exist, we saw a smoke coming from the chimney of one house that seemed inhabited. Gustavo took courage and knocked on the door. A Norwegian approximately 40 and attended a few years and then showed him how to get to both places. We shot, approach both alojamentos and nothing done. One was packed to be getting a group of hunters and the other did not accept 5 people in a single room. Our only option seemed to be back to Coldfoot and pay the 100 U.S. dollar. But we were not happy with this and decided to once again ask Arild (the name of Norsk) if there was nothing else in the region. Gustavo again knocked on his door and told him about the trip and our search for a place to stay. Then asked Arild: "How many of you are"? "We are in 5" - said Gustavo. "Caramba! 5 in a single car? E for many kilometers?! So I guess I will not bother to stay here, some? The house is small, but you can accommodate. "Genial!!! Without hesitation accept the invitation, and below the snow falling, Tanajura withdraw some things and ran into the house. The Arild offered us some beers and made a snack (with some things that we had in the car) We played knock while a long chat with him. Arild construiu Aquele durante chalé 3 summers there and he had made a childhood dream: have a house in a remote place in Alaska! We talked about our countries and cultures, on Alaska, sobre to American culture…e o papo se estendeu até mais de 23h30.

Arild's house, em Wiseman, AK

Expedition 4×1 together with Arild, em Wiseman, AK

The next morning as we keep our stuff back in the car we noticed that we broke one of the screws that were used to support the opening of the tent. Armed with tools and screws that held the construction of your home, Arild it gave us a hand and 15 minutes we were in the tent repaired! We took some pictures, we parted and it was time to leave. We went in search of the most northern point of the Expedition!

Arild giving us a "helping hand" with tent, em Wiseman, AK

Photo in front of the house Arild with the beautiful view of the mountains in the background Wiseman, AK

We started to unravel a little more and go to the tundra stretches considered one of the most dangerous Dalton Highway no winter. The road is presented in some American TV serials like 'Ice Road Truckers’ (Ice Road Truckers) e o ‘America’s Toughest Jobs’ (America's toughest jobs) and has also appeared on BBC program called World’s Most Dangerous Roads (most dangerous roads in the world). The road has all this fame mainly by the huge amount of snow that falls in there most of the year and, mainly, by passage through Atigun Pass (the one you recommended and the boy in the restaurant that we had lunch the day before). The Atigun Pass is the highest pass in Alaska open year round and is the only means of crossing the mountain range called Brooks (Brooks Range) by land routes. Due to their inclination and the amount of snow along the greater part of the year, He is responsible for numerous avalanches and play many truckers off the road! Also, from that narrow in the mountains of Brooks Range, são divididos os rios do Alasca que correm sentido ao Oceano Ártico daqueles que correm sentido ao Pacífico.

Início da Brooks Range

Tanajura poses for photo before facing the most dangerous stretch of the Dalton Highway

We arrive at Atigun Pass after almost 3 hours and stopped for some photos. The road was covered with snow and visibility increasingly compromised. We walked down the ravine and rode slowly over tens of kilometers not sure if we should head to Deadhorse - hoping to get to Prudhoe Bay and the Arctic Ocean view - or come back. But the news we had was that the chances were slim accommodation in Deadhorse; and that buses are allowed to take tourists for Prudhoe Bay to the Arctic Ocean had ended its activities in a week. Thus, no longer worth risking further north and follow. We decided to follow a few more miles and we reached the position 68 ° 24 'North Latitude!

-9 degrees Celsius and a lot of fog in the middle of Atigun Pass – one of the most dangerous stretches of the Dalton Highway

Magdalene indicates the 68 graus e 24 minutes north latitude! The farthest point north of the Expedition 4×1!

This position was a major milestone in our lives. Not only was the end of our "up" and the point would mark the return to the south of the continent, but it was also likely the closest point that we would come to some of the Earth's poles, by land routes, in our lives. Though (by land routes) Ushuaia is the southern boundary of the Americas, its geographical position in relation to the South Pole is much farther than that point there is in Alaska over the North Pole. As Rodrigo dispatch '1000 Days for America 'explains in his post about passing them by Coldfoot, North America is much further north than South America is the South. In other words, we're on the same latitude we reach there by car in Alaska (68°), mas to South Instead of North, would be far beyond Ushuaia. Would be in effect in the Antarctic Peninsula!!! Incredible to think about it right?!

Our brand in the farthest point north that the expedition reached, to Dalton Highway, AK

It was time to return. Rumo ao Sul! After this achievement, began returning toward Coldfoot! This time we had no other option, we had to get the room for two beds 100 U.S. dollar. Three of us slept on the floor and, next morning, we went to one of the main tourist destinations in Alaska: Denali National Park!

Our hotel room in Coldfoot, AK!

Want to see more photos?? Be sure to confer them, just click here!

The post The Ice Road towards the Far North of the Americas appeared first on 4x1.

Date: 21/09/2012 à 24/09/2012

Saímos of: Seattle, WA

Destination: Fairbanks, AK

Distance: 3,660 km

Travel time: 4 days practically integers much road

Path: We follow the Cariboo Highway from Seattle to the city of Prince George, In Canada. From there we about 405km by BC-97 to Dawson Creek, It is a zero milha Alaska Highway. We crossed the road to his entire last mile in Delta Junction, onde tomamos a Richardson Highway em sentido à Fairbanks.

Where to sleep: We stopped in some parking lots of hotels and also in camping areas on the way. Although many establishments were already closed for the winter season, ainda era possível encontrar algumas acomodações.

What eat different: Natural and fresh salmon. O peixe é realmente especial por lá.

Tire cheio: Inspiration and beauty in wild nature. The tour road is like an open air safari. Animals frequently cross the road, repleto de paisagens realmente inspiradoras.

Tire murcho: Many road soon! We did not want to take the risk of taking care of the snow path, then accelerate our journey through Alaska Highway. Unfortunately, deixamos algumas cidades históricas e interessantes pelo caminho.

Alaska Highway – The end of the trip

Legendary, mysticism, wild. A single adjective would not be fair to describe what is the famous Alaska Highway. Aside from the symbolism of reaching one end of the Americas, Breathtaking landscapes, intensa vida selvagem e riqueza cultural dão o tom nos mais de dois mil quilômetros que cruzam o norte gelado da América.

Wildlife is not lacking in road

With the delay for the removal of Tanajura Seattle (saw post here), time, what was already a very scarce resource for us, further shortened. September drew to a close, and with it the remnants of summer in Alaska. The sunny days of mild temperatures gave way to days closed more and more cold. The green vegetation went to yellow, typical autumn, and also Snow White, already gave the guys over there in some parts. All this would be less of a problem, se algumas das atrações e estradas ao longo do caminho não fechassem devido às condições climáticas mais difíceis.

The yellow takes over the landscape in autumn

In order to minimize the risk of lost something, between elas or giant Denali, main park area, decided to face the road ahead and cross it as fast as we could, within reasonable limits. Be driving almost straight: 3.660 km em 4 days, an average 915 km per day. There patience for both ground! It was a day after another lot of road, mas também diversas surpresas no caminho.

Tanajura enjoying the trip

Built to connect the isolated territory of Alaska to other states Americans, before the Japanese offensive in the region during the Second World War, a Alaska Highway (also known as Alaskan Highway, Alaska-Canadian Highway, ou ALCAN Highway) reason is bliss for many travelers and adventurers on duty. The road crosses officially 2.288 km ou 1.422 corn between the towns of Dawson Creek, in the Canadian state of British Columbia, and Delta Junction, já not Alasca, crossing inhospitable part of the Yukon Territory, Canada's last frontier. Unofficial versions see the road as a continuation of the famous Pan American Highway, Crossing the continent from southern Argentina, or extend into the city of Fairbanks, que era exatamente o nosso destino final.

Entering the legendary Alaska Highway

Unlike the time it was inaugurated, no ano de 1942, the Alaska Highway has now completely paved roads and no longer represents a stretch of difficult and challenging direction, but an unforgettable tour through the northern tip of the Americas. We highlight several stopping points along any path, in what they call the historic mileposts (mileage or historical). The mileposts tell a little of the history and progress of the occupation of the region, maintaining their cultural heritage preserved in museums and centers that care for tourists. The City of Dawson Creek, na British Columbia, is the first one, mile zero of the road. We run around 1,500 km desde Seattle (entitled to a quiet passage by the United States-Canada border and a night's sleep in the city of Prince George, BC), before we reach the famous road. Dali, cruzaríamos every mile Alaska Highway, and extends to the city of Fairbanks, AK, onde finalmente relaxaríamos algum tempo.

Peaceful passage across the border from Canada

Our first day marathon gave us an idea of ​​what the cold and things attached to it can do. The thermometer marked about 4 º C and fog took care of Prince George, BC, when we came in late night, after 900 km run. Our usual search for a place to spend the night was hampered by the closure of several RV parkings (trailer parks) and camping areas, that had already closed for the winter and only come back to work in May 2013! Happily, find um Bed&Breakfast next to the highway. Eventhough lotado, allowed us to sleep in the parking lot, dear in our tents. It would be our first experience with them in a low temperature. Not hot chocolate offered by the friendly owner of the place was enough to warm the morning, when the temperature must be lowered further. But we survived! We thought it was real cold, But the rest of the trip would show us that we still had much to suffer!

The path of Alaska

Icy morning in Prince George

We leave early in the morning of Prince George, 406 km ahead towards Dawson Creek (mile 0). A small city in northeastern British Columbia is not the TV series of the decade 90, but the first milestone of our journey through Alaska Highway. We could not help but stop there to collect visitor information in visitors to the city center and also to take a picture on the signs to the entry into one of the most famous roads of the Americas. We also take for lunch at one of the few restaurants in town, trip before heading to Fort Nelson (mile 300), BC, 454 km at frente, onde encontramos um RV parking para passar a noite.

Dawson Creek, It is a zero milha Alaska Highway

Useful information at the Visitor Center of Dawson Creek

Another day road! The goal now was to get to Whitehorse (mile 918), Ja no Yukon. Incredibly, was the largest of the cities that would meet until the end of the road, Delta Junction em. We could not believe that this could pass the unbelievable 20 THOUSAND INHABITANTS! THAT'S IT, 20 MIL! A football stadium almost full days of classic. And it was actually bigger than its neighbors, passed by cities that did not reach 5 thousand inhabitants. To get an idea, Frosty the territory of Yukon holds just over 30 mil pessoas. From northern British Columbia small towns are relatively similar to each other in the sense that all have either restaurant, um posto de gasolina e uma igreja.

Beautiful scenery along the way

Tanajura posing for photo on a bridge in British Columbia

On the way, a surprise. A black bear (black bear) crossed the road. For a few seconds he looked scared to Tanajura, As a child get busted on a frolic. Scared, ran into the woods before we could register a photo. We had passed by moose, reindeer, many exotic birds and sheep region. But that was the first bear we saw on trip. Ficamos ainda mais ansiosos para encontrar mais deles no trajeto.

Arrival to the inhospitable Yukon

Excitement roadside!

This was the last stretch we had more stops on the way. Recommended by several people we spoke to on the road, decided to make a quick stop at the Liard River Hot Springs (mile 496), where natural pools are surprisingly hot bath in the middle of the ice mountains. Despite the desire, maintained our focus and let the bath after, já que a ideia era chegarmos à Whitehorse ainda no mesmo dia.

Liard River Hot Springs em reforma

Hot bath in cold Canada

Walk to the pools

Another stop was in the town of Watson Lake, YT (mile 635). This was essential. During construction of the Alaska Highway, an American soldier homesick began one of the greatest traditions of the road: put a plate in your town in the woods, as a souvenir of their homeland. From dai, Travelers worldwide have done the same. Today the site has more than 75.000 plates of all kinds and origins, forming Sign Post Forest. Who had no plate, made any reference to its passage. Adhesives, pots, carved wood, Tables, all had. We also had to use creativity. Without any card in hand, seen in our beloved Havaianas, the object of the most unique that we could leave Brazil as the mark of the Expedition 4×1 by ali. Thereafter, went straight to Whitehorse, where we would spend our last night until our much desired arrival in Alaska!

Sign Post Forest, Uma Floresta plate imensa em Watson Lake,BC

Mark of the Expedition 4×1 forest na plate

Near 480 more road miles and finally arrived! Our first goal in Travel, the farthest and crazy American who would like to arrive by car, who originated the adventure was read, ahead! Arrives in Alaska!! It was an important point for us, since what we called "Gone" was (or at least seemed) coming to an end. All forward away, leaving Alaskan, would be considered our return home. Nearly four months of travel and an important part of the mission was accomplished. Curiously, The day was beautiful, sunny and mosquitoes, para nos lembrarmos de casa.

We came to Alaska! What joy!

From the U.S. side um, the other Canada

The border region stretches for some kilometers, and celebrates the peaceful relationship between the two countries, absence of police control in a large stretch of walkway between customs. Moreover, the official border is mark by a band without trees between the two countries. There must record output Canadian border and passed again to the land of Uncle Sam (again without problems).

Treeless border between Alaska and the Yukon

A few more kilometers and reached the official end of the Alaska Highway, Delta Junction em (mile 1.422), and extend our route to Fairbanks, the real end of the road for several people. The four-day trip, although strenuous, landscapes and experiences have provided some very interesting and remarkable. The entire path, desde a British Columbia, Yukon or ate or Alasca, is permeated by beautiful scenery of mountains and coniferous vegetation. Not to mention the animals that crossed our path on the road! A vontade era de parar para tirarmos fotos a toda hora.

Invadindo o habitat alheio

Deer crossing the road

Buffalo strolling with Tanajura

For those who also want to venture down that road in autumn, we leave here the famous Ten Commandments we just invent on the Alaska Highway:

1) There daytime piscarás! At a glance, Bears, Moose, reindeer, birds or any other animal that you never had the chance to see up close may cross your path. Not to mention the breathtaking landscapes. The icy regions are quite wild and inhospitable, e a natureza parece que se mantém relativamente intocável na região.

2) Find Aurora overnight! Not got lucky with Aurora Borealis in this stretch of the journey, but we were always open eyes. From Yukon do, the chances of seeing this wonderful phenomenon significantly increase. Our friends 1000days recommend a great website to track forecasts (look here).

3) Do not lose a fuel station! It is common to pass over 200 km without any town with a gas to fuel, especially if running with diesel. Although more expensive fuel, mainly non Canada, não deixamos as oportunidades passarem.

4) Parai on historical miles! Every mile has a historical story to tell or a great asset to meet. Unfortunately we were in a hurry and just go through some of them. Ficamos na vontade.

5) The early bird catches the worm will understand! Most services will close earlier than usual. You will hardly find a restaurant open after 9 night (we pass on that account some perrengues). Nothing that could not be expected to cities with less 5 mil habitantes como a maioria das que se encontram no trajeto.

6) Get ready for winter arrival! Many establishments close for the winter season in mid-September and October. These will remain closed until next summer (May to August). Thereafter, the cold floor and the snow takes over, hindering the circulation in the region (ou até impossibilitando!).

7) You will put a reminder in Watson Lake! Crossing the Alaska Highway and not leave a remembrance in Sign Post Forest é quase como não ter passado.

8) You will eat as much salmon as aguentares! Nas Já Redondezas do Alasca, fresh salmon in restaurants appears more often. Eat as you can!

9) Conduzirás cautiously! Ice and road can be a dangerous combination, portanto todo cuidado é pouco neste caso.

10) Will not think twice and you will put the road! The Alaska Highway is a unique experience for lovers of travel and adventure, and certainly should be included in most lists of best road trips pelo mundo.

For more photos of our journey through Alaska Highway, click here.

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