Date: 14/01/2013 à 16/01/2013

Path: Belize has only a few main roads. Seguimos as placas pela Western Highway.

"Leaving the bustling Belize City we walked away from the north coast and Belizean adentrávamos a little more inland. The road that led us to Dangriga cut saws and fertile fields where one could observe large monoculture fields of sugar cane and orange - two of the main export products of the country. Also we could see peasant communities of mixed origin who lived on agriculture, Maya and their descendants. Unlike Belize City, the villages there were more clean and well cared for and the road gave off a delicious scent of flowers that accompanied some parts of the main highway of the country. And to redownload the coast would have one of the richest cultural experiences we had in Belize, and maybe Central America: contact with Garifuna culture!”

O forte e agradável cheiro das laranjeiras ao longo das estradas Belizenhas denunciam a ainda forte dependência do país na monocultura.

Passing through Dangriga has begun in unusual ways. As soon as we got a corner to open our tents on the outside of a small inn, two university professors and their student group, All Americans, bombarded us with questions! The group of about 15 young, in the range of 19 years old, were perplexed to see a Brazilian car, with 5 grown men, that ran the Americas in their colorful tents, and stopped there! the inn where they were staying! (And they can not imagine how we were also curious to know what they were doing there also!) After you answer the many questions that we are used, as "as had the idea?”, "How long planned?”, "How to live in 5 people so intensely?”, "What is the biggest difficulty faced?”, etc., etc., found that young people were, mostly, first anistas college Holy Cross Catholic College, do estado norte-americano de Massachussets.

Tanajura catching a tan in front of the inn's owner Pinky, em Dangriga – Belize

The beach in front of the hostel owner Pinky, em Dangriga – Belize

For nearly a decade, o Father John (Father coordinating a group) leads, annually, a group of students from different courses from the humanities to Belize, an activity of exchange and cultural immersion. Groups, mostly composed of girls, are usually students interested in becoming teachers. From different disciplines as Pedagogy, Psychology, Social Sciences, etc., young people enjoying their vacation from college to reconcile the opportunity to live for a few weeks in an English speaking country, and underdeveloped, (a reality TOTALLY different from what they are accustomed) with the possibility of exercising techniques and concepts learned in their courses, permeating an exchange with the local teachers. Being very new, end up absorbing much of the experience of being alongside more experienced teachers! A very nice!

Dinner prepared and served by Mrs. Pinky (the owner of the inn), reap some tips with the group and depart the next morning to discover the amazing history and relevance of Dangriga to Belize: the culture of the Garífuna people!

Early in the morning we set off for the small and humble museum called 'Garifuna Museum Gulisi' and with the guidance of a Garifuna woman herself (appropriately dressed as a typical Garifuna) we traveled in time warp, for a story far removed from what we used to learn in Brazilian schools…

The Garifuna lady who received us very well and had great pleasure in telling us the history and cultural traditions and food of its people who live across the Caribbean coast of Central America. (No museu ‘Gulisi Garífuna Museum’, em Dandriga- Belize)

Everything goes back to the arrival of the Kalinago people (Indians from the region of the Orinoco River Delta - current Venezuela) the island of São Vicente (Current 'Saint Vincent and the Grenadines'), no Caribbean. Brave Warriors, the Kalinagos soon clashed with Arawks, primitive Caribbean, living in the region. With the death of most men, Kalinagos the women did their wives Arawks, miscigenando both races and forming what later the British would call 'Red Caribs’, or 'Red Caribs'.

No entanto, around the years of 1635 the 1675, men of African origin arrive on the island. As well?! For it is, the British had a hand in it there… é clear! Survivors of ship wrecks several British (carrying Africans to work as slaves in their provinces in the islands of the Antilles these men swam to the coast of St. Vincent in search of freedom and start a new life. But as soon as they found living there, the 'Red Caribs' have left cheaply. After numerous conflicts between them and miscegenation (attended to with a few Spaniards who were there too), a piece of black prevailed, adopting much of the local cultures and forming a new "ethnicity" on the island: the "Black Caribs’, or 'Black Caribbean'. This new population 'Black Caribs'Becomes known later as Garífunas!

The Caribbean Sea (in this photo, in front of Dangriga – Belize) witnessed – centuries – the struggle of African survivors of shipwrecks of the British ships that transported as slaves. Os negros nadaram até as ilhas caribenhas em busca da liberdade.

From 1750 the island of São Vicente was divided between 'Red Caribs’, os Garífunas (or 'Black Caribs’) and a group of French. French?! Yes, expelled by the British from other Caribbean islands and who had also played with the local Caribs for a piece of land for cultivation. No entanto, a chegada dos ingleses causaria um grande distúrbio na ilha.

The British wanted to dominate the entire island to expand its lucrative sugar and slave markets and, so, take full control of the islands of the Antilles. This sparked a war over 32 years between the English against the Garífunas, that earlier had the support of the French. After many battles and deaths, the British finally took full control of the island: expulsaram os franceses e conseguiram a rendição dos Garífunas.

No entanto, as the Garifunas were black skin, their freedom to come and go island bothered by the English plan to enslave blacks brought from Africa in Garífunas who saw a chance to also become free. Thus begins a chase that Garífunas to start to seek residence in the West Indies and other islands until they reach the coast of Central American countries. During this period the total number of Garífunas barely passes the house 200 people!!! Ultimately, after the independence of the Central American countries against Spain, as Honduras, Guatemala and Nicaragua, most Garífunas migrated to Belize where a large population of Garífunas already living in the town of Dangriga: who for many years was the second largest in the country!

Around 1920, Thomas Vincent Ramos sought help public health community and creating institutions to support the Garifuna people in order to maintain their teadições. In 1941 was created a holiday (19 November – date of their arrival in Belize) em celebração à herança cultural Garífuna.

The mural displays some traits of the Garifuna culture which is currently spread over almost the entire Caribbean coast of Central American countries. Featured, the flag of Dangriga of the major cities of the Garifuna culture today. (em Dandriga, Belize)

The museum we visited Gulisi is named after one of the first women to reach Belize Garífunas with their 13 children, initiating the occupation of the territory and the first settlements. The story of Gulisi and his arrival in Belize via oral history was transcribed by his granddaughter. The Garifunas are now everywhere in the small town of Dangriga which has only 9 thousand inhabitants (Belize whole has only 356 thousand!). Your Language, that contrary to what many think, There is nothing African. It consists primarily of the tongue 'Red Caribs’ (Arawk and Kalinago - source of indigenous South Americans) and English influence, French and a little Spanish. Besides the language, sua cultura, music and folk dancing is considered by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity!

The lady shows us what we know as' Tipiti’ (instrument of braided straw used to extract the juice of ground cassava and make it dry) in front of the table illustrates the cassava. Below, uma chapa usada para torrar a mandioca seca que sai do Tipiti.

A turma 4×1 gathered in front of the museum 'Garifuna Museum Gulisi’ with our friendly guide Garifuna. (Dangriga – Belize)

In Dangriga we also have another amazing experience. With the permission of Father John and accompanied by 3 American students, Expedition 4×1 back to school! We left early for Holy Ghost School to know closely a real classroom Belizenha! In divided into 2 groups not to disrupt the very classrooms. We stayed at the college for two shifts 45 minutes each and we witness two classes from two different disciplines and age ranges: between 5 the 12 anos.

School Holy Ghost School in Dangriga, which opened its doors to new students of the Expedition 4×1!

The crowd stirred in the interval between classes…

A comic hanging in the room, helps students memorize the national symbols of Belize. And you know what are the official symbols of Brazil? Unlike Belize which also has elements of flora and fauna, our restricted to Brazil Flag, National Arms (Coat or National), o Hino Nacional e o Selo Nacional.

We must admit that this experience played strong in our hearts. Never again be imagined sitting in the portfolios of a smorgasbord of classes of primary. It was nice to be back at school… join the call, see the backpacks neat, follow the teacher with a book and see the kids raising their hands to answer a question. Further around children so dedicated and participatory!!! Sometimes giving up desire to raise his hand to answer a question of mathematics or geography. The excitement of the children to participate in the class is similar to adult happy to interact with us in the streets. Coolest is still see the teacher changing language between English and Garifuna to explain some things students!

Aluna vai ao quadro negro responder questão proposta pela professora.

Aluno concentrado na tarefa que a professora passou.

At the end of class, we had a great opportunity to talk with teachers belizenhas, they told us feel very proud of what they do. Not only that school, but from what we saw in the afternoon hiking we do while we were there in Dangriga, schools were always full of students at certain hours! All uniforms and uptight and elegant. Anxious waiting for the signal to leave the yard and play ball (in one of the late afternoon we were there, among more than 20 young blacks, average, 1,80m height! Needless to say how much flew on bumps, nor?! hahahaha) Returning to the subject of education, by the teachers told us, and to see the enthusiasm of the children in the classroom, just wait for the next few years we see a picture of change in the country for the better! After all it is necessary to reverse the current social and economic situation of a people that has been highly exploited by the British and now basically depends on the export of agricultural commodities such as sugar cane, citrus fruits and bananas. But it was sad to know that students have a rate of only 25 belizenhos dollars (Search R $ 25,00) annual pay for school and yet between 25 the 40% not afford to pay!

Students rush to enjoy the recreational! Now, imagine having a school with a privileged view of these?!

Alunas no intervalo de aula.

Crianças em outro colégio de Dangriga brincam de corda.

In one of the late afternoon we were also accompanied by a gentleman and scruffy wanderer who told us that, exchanged for a, offered us the "tour" the city. Earlier suspect, but after a short conversation, we run into the ride. Telling stories and greeting local, you took us to see the live work of master craftsman Dangriga: Mr. Austin Rodriguez. In his humble workshop by the beach, Mr. Rodriguez produz há anos os mais famosos tambores que são vendidos por toda Belize e ajuda a manter a tradição musical do povo Garífuna.

Privilege to watch the master craftsman Austin Rodriguez concocting one of his very well-crafted drums – em Dangriga, Belize.

His team removing the skin (a goat) that will be used for the manufacture of drums. Note that your workshop is simple and oceanfront!

The drums trunk wood in various sizes alinhandos, esperando o acabamento final e a colocação da pele de cabra.

During the Christmas holidays and New Year, the Garífunas performam a typical dance called Wanaragua. It, young male female wear masks and dress in women's clothing (from head to toe in some kind of disguise) and dance to the beat of the drums (such as those made by Mr. Rodriguez). This dance keeps alive an oral tradition Garifuna about a strategy developed by one of its top leaders: Satuye. The story goes that his men Satuye dressed as women to surpreenderem the English who came into their properties "innocently" without waiting male resistance. So, so clever, os ingleses foram surpreendidos pelas falsas-mulheres Garífunas que os desarmaram e os derrotaram.

The Garífunas Belize are currently around 15 thousand people and represent approximately 30% the total in the world (mostly in Central America). They are everywhere in the small city of Dandriga: be in classrooms, in craft shops, fishing or trade. Are a great example of resistance to European colonization and the struggle to preserve the richness and uniqueness of the wealth of a people. In their case, to exceptional Afro-caribenha!

A weekday common in Dangriga…

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Date: 12/01/2013 à 13/01/2013

Path: We crossed the border to Santa Elena, e tomamos a Northern Highway direto ao coração de Belize City.

Belize – A Fish Out of Water

We take our coffee in the morning in Laguna Bacalar, Tanajura to prepare and we put on the road. After almost two months since we crossed the border at Tijuana, were finally, dismissing us from Mexico, um country that will leave you longing. Mas tínhamos to follow! He was ahead, the unknown for the Americas Expedition 4×1, the region over which knew less. And we come ready with the country that is perhaps the most unique among his neighbors. A nation of different color, different rates, different language. Nada mais exótico que Belize para dar as boas-vindas à nossa viagem pela América Central.

From the moment that crossed the border of Mexico, things began to change. The appearance of the indigenous people in the streets gradually gave way to black. The plates were already scarce in Spanish, and the new indicated all in English. And where were the tacos and burritos? Era como se tivéssemos atravessado um portal na fronteira e saído em outra parte do mundo.

The Frontier

Belize is definitely a fish out of water in Central America. Continental countries, is the only one with English colonial influence. Not for less, the country's official language is English. But with an English accent different. To be where you are, Belize also speaks much Spanish and Creole, a language derived from English, com influência do espanhol.

Children going to school in Belize City

The Mayans dominated the region until the mid seventeenth century British explorers reached the coast, interested in the abundant wood. The Spaniards had not yet reached this region at the time. Known as British Honduras in colonial times, Belize gained its current name only in 1973, when he had greater political independence from Great- Brittany. But even the independence of truth only came in 1981, with U.S. mediation. Your neighbor, in Guatemala, ainda hoje não reconhece Belize como um estado independente e clama seu território para si.

House apart, Typical dinner Belize City

The country is a veritable jumble of customs and traditions of Indians, black and white. Belizenha The population is composed mostly by people of multiracial descent. About half of the population is mestizo origin (Mayan and European), fourth is of African descent and african-European (Creole), about 10% Maya and are about 6% are african-Amerindian (Garifuna). The remainder includes groups of European origin, indiana, Chinese, norte-americana e do médio oriente.

The white and black mingle in the city

But not only the cultural richness and uniqueness of living Belize. Nature has been very generous with the country. Besides the rich fauna and flora of the forest, belizenha the coast is something to impress. The Mesoamerican Barrier Reef (world's second largest) cuts off the coast of the country from north to south and provides a world apart under the sea. O Blue Hole, a huge hole in the middle of the sea, is a real nature reserve, and lives up to the reputation it has among the world divers. Near the coast, several islands (or cayes as local calls) oferecem cenários paradisíacos e são o ponto de partida para a exploração subaquática.

Fishing boats not “port” city

Barely into the country and take direction towards the coast. The destination was the Caribbean islands. To alcançá-what, needed was a stop in Belize City, largest city with just over 60 thousand inhabitants (Belize has in total about 330 thousand inhabitants, smaller than Santos City!) and mistakenly taken as its capital (the officer is Belmopan!). The place was in chaos! Old cars and fill the noisy city center, where crowds wander the slums. The houses were more like shacks, e no primeiro momento deram a impressão de que estávamos em uma verdadeira favela.

Old wooden houses spread across all corners

A Tanajura, as it could not be, drew the attention of local, that every time they approached the car to say anything. The Belizeans like to talk, within minutes in the city met a handful of nuts. But we can not deny his sympathy. One, hilarious name was Charles. Obtained our attention by almost 40 minutes to give us a history lesson of Belize. Ele was Professor Universitário, but the appearance was more that of a street beggar. Trial that soon falls apart in a few minutes of conversation. They made us "Ambassadors of Belize" (entitled to everything and pledge!), for us to speak well of the country worldwide. Contained!

Prince Charles belizenho

We had a history lesson on the street

Our first mission was to find in the city where we'd grab the boat to Caye Caulker, an island a few miles off the coast and a major tourist destination in the country. After Magdalena (nosso GPS) guide us in circles for a long time, few questions for locals to come and agencies that transport to check prices and schedules. As it was late afternoon and the last boat was to leave, decidimos passar a noite no caos mesmo e seguir para a ilha na manhã seguinte.

Traffic chaos on the streets of Belize City

The dollar Belizean worth almost the same as a real, then we lose the advantage we had in Exchange. The country ends up being relatively expensive to eat and stay, if one compares to Mexico. We ended up having dinner at our hostel, o Seaside Guest House, near the waterfront. The place is tidy and the owner / hostess / cook made a supper for us right there. To complete or curriculum, she was active player selection of professional football in Belize. When we asked what we could do for Saturday night, ela nos convidou para uma volta na cidade.

Our hosting

The owner Elize guided us through the city streets, that were strikingly empty. We found that local people were trapped at home in recent days, after a series of brutal murders bizarrely, result of reckoning between gangs and police, occurred in the city. Really say that Belize City is not the safest, and indeed, sentimos um pouco de medo ao caminhar pelas ruas.

That was when she showed us where was the buzz. Num Fomos stop boteco, those well fubeca, where locals were enjoying worth karaoke. Dining! We were not able to take a local beer (Belikin) in the company of a dog that followed us the whole way to the bar. Foi uma experiência no mínimo curiosa.

More wooden house

We seek to guides and conversations with the locals somewhere to meet in the city, but it was hard to find something. Belize City is not there a very touristy town, much less friendly. Court entered no, passed the Government Palace, and arrived by chance in a Cultural Center, which is home to several presentations in the city. Not so much as a museum, but we could see something, mainly national heritage that is the Punta Rock, um ritmo tradicional do povo Garifuna.

Gallery at the Cultural Center

Regional Court

If we had something we liked in Belize City, was the food. The spices, com pimenta and coco, reminiscent of Caribbean cuisine. Variety had not, but what he had was very good. Seasoned chicken, rice mixed with beans and banana fried or roasted. Simples e gostoso.

The food was a delight

Log in Belize was like a shock. Looking, already realized that this was the strangest place we've been during the entire trip so far. E esses eram apenas nossos primeiros dias na América Central.

Gustavo costumed flag of Belize

For more photos of Belize City, click here!

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