Date: 07/10/2012 e 09/10/2012

Saímos of: Haines, Alaska, EUA.

Final destiny: Prince Rupert, British Columbia, Canadá.

Total distance: 765 km

Travel time: A day and Duas noites.

Path: We took the ferry across Inside Passage and, so, nos despedíamos do Alasca.

Where to sleep: In the chaos of the rest room, na balsa.

What we eat good: The food was not the best ferry, but got two sandwiches for free on the first day! J

Tire cheio: The opportunity to meet new people, sem pressa e sem a rotina normalmente corrida da Expedição.

Tire murcho: Sleeping on the floor is never good right! (hehehe)

Was 16h Day 07 October and we were ready to board the ferry that would take us from Haines to Prince Rupert, a trip 2 days, stopping to exchange vessel only once. We boarded with Tana and sailed around 17h toward Juneau, the state capital of Alaska, where would exchange ferry to leave then finally to Prince Rupert, Canada not. Tana Paramos a raft, along with several other cars, e subimos para a para fazer um reconhecimento da embarcação.

Entering the ferry

Essa route we would do between Haines (to north) and Prince Rupert (most southerly), sailing between islands and the mainland is known as Inside Passage (in Portuguese, interior passage). It does not come to pass by the open sea and the impression was that, As is ground on both sides, We were down a great river. Mountains covered with ice, glaciers and sometimes even whales are often seen things on that route (unfortunately the "high season" of whales had just a few weeks ago and I could not see any). But still, is a surreal landscape, especially when you remember that this is simply a "ferry" for routine users!

How much time we would not be in it, do not bother to look for good places, we just sat in the observation deck outdoors watching the beautiful scenery passing before our eyes while there was still a bit of daylight. The night came quickly and then down to Jantar we prepare to land, pois Juneau já estava próxima e precisaríamos dirigir a Tana até o outro ferry.

Passing time

As we did not know for sure how long we had to exit a ferry and embark on another, and so we were careful that everything was ok already removed the Tana and take it to the point of waiting for the boarding another ferry. However, then we found out that our expectations were not very real: we had to wait over 3 hours for boarding. Well, back a bit, so stop with Tana in the waiting area realize that the entry of passengers walk was about to be released. Therewith, we split and 3 of us went to the queue of passengers without car, others 2 were hoping to steer the ship when it authorized. The pedestrian entrance seemed a race. Let us explain why: not many people are willing to pay for cabins for sleeping and, then, bring their sleeping bags and pillows to lie in any public place of the ship and sleep. We, clear, we fit into this category. Therewith, when opening the entry for all passengers who are going with this intention immediately in search of the best places! We were in 3, then we parted and soon we were dropping our junk where we thought it a good place. After a few laps on the ship discovered a "small room of rest" that was definitely the best option for sleep: ground "soft" (carpet), few windows (what deixava dark) and with ample space between seats, encaixarmos great for our sleeping bags! Confirmamos nossa escolha logo que percebemos que várias pessoas foram atrás desse lugar hahaha.

Meanwhile Gabriel and Gustavo, accompanying the Tanajura, continued to wait outside and ended up making friends with other drivers who also awaiting shipment of their vehicles in ship. But one of them was special: Jeremy - a plumber approximately 34 years old, very smart and with a great life story, we talked a lot even within the ship (we will tell soon). It was almost midnight, the cold began to tighten. We were already hungry and after nearly 3 hours late, finally got put Tana na raft. Next step was to look for something to eat, since with the long delay in the exchange of ships could not eat anything. We had luck! The snack bar was about to close and you then saw our guys hungry and offered us two free sandwiches! Partimos para dormir nos espaços que tínhamos reservado.

We woke up the next day without haste, because this would be the day we would spend just on the ferry. We used to read a lot, write and play our favorite game of ships: One or! Hahaha. But one of the highlights of the crossing was able to chat with other passengers and watch the beautiful landscape of mountains of snow, glaciers, birds dived for fish, addition of small villages that were outside the channel Inside Passage, surrounded by pine. Foi nesse dia que pudemos conhecer melhor a história do Jeremy.

Reading, listening to music, resting…

The conversation began with him only the night boarding in Juneau through simple (and practical people costumeira) curiosity that Tanajura woke them. “Diesel hein?! Legal! …What kind of brakes you use? …This cool bumper! What kind of material did you use? …In how many inches you raised her?"These, Among many other questions showed that Jeremy knew about off-road. Actually he gave us a lesson. It, em moments, showed us the journals in off-road he signed and photos of your darling! By 4×4 yellow that looked like a bigfoot so high! Jeremy was a plumber and in his spare time took her 4×4 to "play" (As he spoke) mud in the interior of Oregon, where he grew up and where his parents and siblings still living. Jeremy still in boarding Tanajura gave us, also, a lesson on the cities there Inside Passage. Told us about the size of major cities and the "fight" between environmental policy, politicians and residents who were divided in opinion create a road that would connect Juneau (Alaskan capital to do) the rest of the continent. It turns out that Juneau is a small town surrounded by high mountains and glaciers and has no roads that cut and allow the city to more easily "connected with the rest of the world". If on one hand this would impact the environment, the rich nature of the region and also its "status" of small and harmonious village; second, its residents have other options out there, This would represent also an alternative to the ferry (such that we were getting) and the small airport in the city - by the way, both much more expensive costs to exit and enter the city. So, By this connection unless something practical and trivial, costs of city life are quite high, mainly with basic issues like food, uma vez que tudo chega ou de balsa ou de avião.

Conversation with Jeremy

And the conversation continued with Jeremy on the boat. He told us how his routine was working there in the region and behaved like the union to which he belonged. Reported on labor relations between companies, union and professional technical level, as ele. Muito interesting, because we know a little of the organization of these relations, their pay levels, advantages and disadvantages to each party involved, especially when compared to what happens in Brazil, where the demand for skilled labor is increasingly scarce. It could be an alternative model for us, but need to be well adapted, because workers and unions would be too beholden to corporate interests, sem muita flexibilidade e com altos riscos em situações de crise no país.

But the subject that Jeremy was more sensitive in discussing, and we most alongamos, was abortion. Although the subject is very controversial (not the whole world, by the way), Jeremy stated their opinions on this, about how he saw the interference of the State and also the theme on how this interference can impact and shape the thinking of American society. Jeremy still married to 15 years and he and his wife tried a son when he still had 16, but the baby died in the womb of his wife. The following year tried again and this time they had their first child. Other attempts have occurred and Jeremy and his wife lost more 1 or 2 children of miscarriage before reaching the number of 4 sons who have now. The losses rocked much to him and his wife who have studied the issue enough. Today Jeremy asks very lucid state intervention in the American health, once there is support and funding abortion methods and a disregard with respect to poor people with serious illnesses or even terminally ill (something that was not the first time we hear). He also spoke about the issue of the use of weapons in the country and how he sees a reversal of values ​​in society and in education as a whole. Jeremy sought religion a few years ago and now their daughters are missions to help communities at risk in countries of South America and Africa. Truly an amazing life story and that greatly moved us and made us think hard!

O barco prosseguia e a paisagem do lado de fora era mesmo exuberante.

Glaciers in the landscape

Observation deck of the ferry

At the end of the second day docked in Ketchikan, stop where Jeremy and descend, how we would get 2 hours standing laser, he invited us to see the car he had built with his own hands! We waited in a cafe near the port and in a few minutes he returned with his wife and with the car so we knew. The vehicle was actually a contraption, all modified, with a suspension that left much louder than a normal car, cutouts on the hood for engine breathing, current support for the driver get up, all designed to the smallest detail. Too bad the time was short and soon had the fire to voltarmos the boat, mas antes o Jeremy fez questão de orar por nós e pedir bênçãos para o nosso retorno à parte sul do continente.

We with Jeremy, your wife and your car!

According to changes made to the Jeremy

We returned to the boat for our last game of Uno. 23h was almost crying when a man passed by the ship's restaurant where we played our partidinhas: “There are some nice Northern Lights out there!” (Northern Lights is what they call the Aurora Borealis). And off we went running to the top where there was a ferry deck open for viewing from view. No wonder the amazement of the man as they are unusual cases of Aurora here in southern Alaska. Why E? In a simplistic way, and since we are not scientists, We can explain the Aurora as follows: O Sun, Alem de luz, also emits charged particles in space a lot of energy. These particles as they approach the Earth are "absorbed" by our atmosphere and displaced towards the poles of the planet (due to the magnetic attraction of the poles). Thus these particles collide with atoms of Earth (Oxygen mainly, we breathe, and Nitrogen) generating a chemical process in which releases light. Why the lights emitted by this collision of particles can only be seen near the poles of the Earth! Since the light emitted by the sun is stronger than the light emitted by these particles, Aurora can only be seen at night, with clear skies, cloudless. So, on a clear day, The later, less influence of city lights and closer to the poles you are, will be easier to see Aurora. Normally this combination occurs closer to winter, where the nights are longer and the weather (in the case of Alaska) but e seco, without influence of clouds. So, only very strong solar flares are able to allow it to be viewed as a place "far" Polo, where as there were! Something unusual happened! Eita fate, hein!!!

Aurora borealis giving greenish sky

Coincidence or not, this was our last night here in Alaska, because the next day already atracaríamos in Canada. The parade here in Ketchikan with Jeremy was, officially, Our last stop on the territory of our first goal (Alaska) and marks the beginning of a new phase: the descent into Ushuaia, Land of Fire, ou chamada também de O Fim do Mundo.

Fresh air to come. And the journey continues!

Want to see more photos of our trip? Click here!

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Ficha 4 × 1

Date: 04/10/2012 à 07/10/2012

Saímos of: Denali National Park, AK

Destination: Haines Borough, Stopping in Anchorage AK, AK por 2 noites.

Distance: 239 miles from Denali to Anchorage and 756 miles from Anchorage to Haines (sleeping with a stop in Tok).

Travel time: Denali – Anchorage: 6:30 hours, including stop for lunch. Anchorage – Haines,,en,great service and best cost-benefit Haines,,pt,It has been presented on Broadway,,pt,We miss a museum to tell a bit of local history,,pt,and more options to eat,,pt,depending on the geographical location next to the former Soviet Union,,pt,located in an area that is a major tourist hub of the region,,pt,group that occupied the region in ancient times,,pt,allowing access to several other cities in the region,,pt,Besides having one of the largest populations in the world eagles,,pt,7th / Oct would be the Thanksgiving holiday of Canadian neighbors,,pt,comparisons aside,,pt,We realized that even,,pt: 16:30 hours, divided em 2 excerpts: 1) Anchorage – Took: 4:30 hours roadside; 2) Took – Haines: 12 hours, incluindo paradas para almoço e combustível.

Path: The first section was done in AK-3 S / George Park Highway, while the second part was divided into various roads, with beautiful scenery (AK-1 N; Ak-2 And where we come in Canda; Alaska Hayway novamente; e Haines Hayway, Which brings us back to the United States).

Where to sleep: In Anchorage were two nights at the hotel Extended Stay, to update pending. Already on the way to Haines, in the city of Tok, we slept in our tent, in the parking lot of a roadside hotel, while in Haines, ficamos as três noites na nossa barraca no camping Camper Park já que a temperatura estava mais sob controle.

What eat different: Overdose of Thai food. Still on the Road, arriving in Tok, we had our first Thai meal in a trailer for a nice couple. If ever there someone passer, find a sticker shipment 4×1. Já em Haines, almoçamos by 3 vezes no Chilkat Bakery Restaurant, a delightful restaurant with Thai food, ótimo serviço e melhor custo-benefício de Haines.

Tire cheio: The coexistence between man and the bear. The Chilkat river fishing is an activity that is shared, where men and bears are seen almost side by side. Moreover, assitimos a fun musical (que já foi apresentado na Broadway), with actors and local production!

Tire murcho: Nothing very relevant. Sentimos falta de um museu que contasse um pouco da história local, e de mais opções para comer.

HAINES - A Little place in the Middle of Nothing, Full of Surprises Good

"Often, entitulamos untamable beasts like bears, always putting them responsibility for any attack, when in fact we are often, men, we do not respect the space and their habitat. Em Haines, conclude that living in harmony between men and bears can, is just a question of limits. Unlike everything we read and hear, there men and bears share the same space in search of the same food. "

After intense and rich life experience in Denali Wilderness, and before we arrive em Haines, passed through Anchorage, largest city in the state of Alaska, approximately 300.000 thousand inhabitants, ie you love to 40% the entire population of the state, also known as "The Last Frontier". Its development was mainly due to the airline industry, since it has the third busiest cargo airport in the world. Moreover, the United States maintains two major military bases in Anchorage since the Cold War, em função da localização geográfica próxima à antiga União Soviética. Our passage there lasted 2 days, and was very helpful in putting day as pending in site update, laundry and revision of 20,000 km of Tanajura. Since they do not manufacture the Frontier diesel in U.S., they did not have the correct oil filter, então foi a hora de entrar em ação nosso estoque de peças reservas que havíamos comprado no Brasil para situações como essa.

ToDO left behind, we rumo Haines, a town of 2.500 inhabitants which has a rich history and natural diversity, localizada em uma area que é um importante pólo turístico da região, known as inside passage, a gorgeous sea route which will have a detailed description in the next post. The town's name came after a mission and a school commissioned by a Chilkat (grupo que ocupava a região nos tempos mais remotos), as a way of honoring the chairman of the committee that raised funds for the construction work, in 1884. But the region has undergone a change during the most important years of 1898 and 1899, due to the gold rush (golden rush). The main road so far called Dalton's trail allowed the gold and supplies were directed towards the region of Yukon, which increased its importance in the region. But, after the construction of the railroad White Pass and Yukon, que permitia o acesso a diversas outra cidades da região, increased competition and the economy experienced a slight decline. Currently, tourism is the main attraction of the city. Além de possuir uma das maiores populações de águias do mundo (bald eagles – that eagle which is the symbol of the U.S.), fishing also attracts numerous visitors to the region. Moreover, Summer in the city is also very popular for outdoor activities, como rafting e trilhas.

We arrived very late in Haines, on Thursday, around 23:00 hours, tired , starving and without a place to sleep. We try to feed logo lombriga, eating a pizza in a pub, where we gather information about the campsites city. We searched for almost an hour, unsuccessfully, until we decided to ask a police officer who should have been suspicious of something, so many times we spent in the station deserted street. We followed his car to get a camping not allowed access to cars. So, He took us to the camping Camper Park, where we stayed for three days, bem protegidos da friagem e com banheiro um pouco precário.

The city was "full" because on Monday, dia 7/Out seria o feriado de ação de graças dos vizinhos canadenses. Em Every place that íamos, greetings of welcome were given to siblings of border. The first thing we did the next day was going to the visitor center, where we were very well received by the friendly American lady who gave us tips of interesting activities in the city. We left eager for the main attraction of the city, or rio Chilkat, which had already been indicated by other friends expeditioners. In River, handheld devices with fishermen, both local and tourists, go in search of food and leisure. As we approached the river we can understand why its popularity. The smell of fish could be felt inside the car with the windows closed such a quantity of salmon crossing the river. As we said in the post from Seattle, salmon ascend back to the river to spawn and die, after having spent most of his life at sea. To fish, people wore special clothes to withstand the icy water, since there fishing is traditionally done in the water, often through the modality “fly-fishing”.

Besides the traditional fishermen, various birds like the bald eagle (American Bald Eagle) and Gaivotas, adorned the river view. But all that jumble of cars and tourists were there to see a third type of fisherman, "Or friend Urso", more accustomed to the cold water in the region. They crossed the river with a smile on your face, regardless of the temperature, in search of the best spot to catch their prey. They were near the rocks, Using its sharp teeth to separate the skin, interestingly is the part they like best. In another particular situção, drove slowly (alga em throne of 20km / h) observing the landscape, breathing the air with open windows when, to our surprise a grizzly bear appeared in our window, the 2 meters away. This was not the greatest, but it was close we've ever seen, not to mention the surprise factor. We were completely unresponsive, they can not even take picture of this scene. But there were many opportunities. We also saw a bear 3 meters from the car, sniffing and rubbing on a metal plate, completely hipinotizado, what made us think that some fisherman might have cleaned salmon over there. Indeed, stand there looking at the bridge this huge beast look docile, so docile that makes you want to move your hand, sharing the space with the man was a truly amazing feeling. Oftentimes, entitulamos untamable beasts like bears, always putting them responsibility for any attack, when in fact we are often, men, we do not respect the space and their habitat. Em Haines, conclude that living in harmony between men and bears can, is just a question of limits. Unlike everything we read and hear, lá os homens e o ursos dividem o mesmo espaço em busca do mesmo alimento.

During our stop at the visitors center, we were informed that there would be a special event in town that weekend. A play called Oklahoma, a musical one day for a staged on Broadway, but with local actors and production. We went to buy tickets for the afternoon in a bookstore, where we discover that the daughter of the owner of the bookstore, I was in the store would be a part of the actresses. When they were 19:15, We were at the stage door, 15 minutes before starting the play. The seats were spacious, Standard size of the American view of the stage and was good from anywhere in the small amphitheater. We got there, no pretense for the three-hour show that would ahead. When the play began, soon realized that nobody was there professional. But amateurism brought a bounty of different jokes ready, was a joke natural, where the actor was smiling along with the audience. An older lady, along with the couple secondary, made of single piece good for a big surprise. Gradually the laughs were coming and infecting everyone present. Comparações aparte, the costumes, scenarios and the production as a whole were great, given the size of the city. Perhaps as a matter of expectations or indeed the quality of the piece, o fato é que saímos de lá descontraídos e satisfeitos com o investimento.

In addition to the outdoor attractions, Haines has a museum / workshop where huge wooden totem poles are made by hand. It is an attempt to reproduce the indigenous art, já que a grande maioria das obras originais foi sendo degradada com o tempo.

On Saturday night, went back to the same pub that we had eaten pizza, the first day. This time the atmosphere was much more crowded and lively. As Brazilian, football lovers, Gruden at the geek table (or pebolim) almost all night, where laughter and screams were packaged beer by alaskiana. As it was our last night in Alaska, decided to step out in style. We asked a song and sing and dance on the runway karaoke pub. As soon as the first verses came, others joined us on the trail packed by hit Twist and shout.

Shortly before embarcarmos the ferry to Prince Huppert, still had time to grab a 18km road that led us to a view of the Davidson Glacier, mais uma experiência agra1dável nesse formidável lugarejo.

For more photos from our visit to Haines, click here!

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