Date: 25/11/2012 à 27/11/2012

Path: Always follow the good and well signposted Carretera Federal 1 (Mexico 1) – claro com uma ajudinha ou outra dos locais para achar praias ou pontos específicos.

A 'Pueblo Magico' is a town that has symbolic attributes, legends, story, made significant, daily, Finally MAGIC emanating in each of its manifestations and sociocultural meaning nowadays a great opportunity for tourist use. (Site of SECTUR - Secretary of Tourism of Mexico)

And that definition is not for nothing! One of the things that caught our attention during our passage through Mexico was the exemplary organization of its tourism. Das parallelepiped ruas, to luminaires well painted; centennial of churches of various styles of the houses of the colonial elite; museums, the palaces, artistic and cultural events in many places… Ultimately, the conservation status and organization of Mexican cities, preserving its history since pre-Columbian times to the colonial, as well as aspects of local traditions, should serve as an example for us Brazilians!

Our first contact with this more evident universe of surprises and stories took place in Baja California Sur yet, only two localities in the state (Loreto and All (the) Santos) which are among the 83 Cities covered in this federal program, called Magic Towns. Vale only one caveat: are not only the cities belonging to this program that are not taking the hat! These are, normally, small towns, but there are also some other larger cities that are equally, or further, Amazing!

Story…

…daily…

…legends…

…and symbolic attributes, SAO characteristics as two Mexican Magic Towns! Exemplar investimento do turismo do México.

Our passage began in Loreto. After 3 days camped at El Coyote without almost having structure, turn to a more "traditional". So, enjoyed the "comfort" of well structured camping Riviera del Mar (which despite the name was not so close to the sea) to wash clothes and personal hygiene capricharmos (heheheh). E clear, gave us an updated email, site, redes sociais e etc.

Just after 12am we went for a walk in the quiet town of Loreto (or Concho, as it was known by the natives before the Spanish arrived). Surrounded by colonial buildings erected since the early eighteenth century, Our first stop was just at the main and oldest of them: at Mission Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho. Despite the church that is there currently being built in 1740, the mission of Loreto was founded in 1697 and is therefore considered 'The head and the mother of the missions of Baja and Alta California ' – The mother and head of missions (Jesuit) Lower and Upper California. After the arrival of the Spaniards to the Americas, for almost 150 years they tried to colonize the peninsula. But it was only in 1697 that Jesuit missionaries led by Juan María de Salvatierra managed, under their own responsibilities and resources, colonize what is now the town of Loreto. Dali would leave the next Jesuit missions that would found a series of missions and towns throughout the peninsula to the current state of California, USA. Then, Christianity was spread to those parts of America; bem como a submissão à Coroa espanhola e as inúmeras doenças que dizimavam milhares de nativos.

A igreja of Our Lady of Loreto – where there was the Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho mission, from where all the Jesuit missions of the Californias. (BCS, Mexico)

Inside da Igreja de Nuestra Señora de Loreto

For these reasons, Loreto became (and bears the title today) the historic capital of the Californias: from High (where is today the U.S. state) and Low (not Mexico). Around the church and the municipal palace is clean and well maintained historical centrinho, ares still with colonial. A whole street covered with trees arch-shaped, without access to vehicles, is one of the main charms of the city. It's a spot cooler in the center of sunny and calm Loreto, nice for a reading, um sorvete ou um papo entre amigos num entardecer.

The Palacio Municipal de Loreto with the words of “Historical capital of the Californias”, em Loreto (BCS, Mexico)

At “Marco Zero” also holds the title of Capital of Las Californias Historical – em Loreto – BCS, Mexico

A nice street entirely covered with trees arch-shaped (Loreto – BCS, Mexico)

As delicious shrimp quesadillas restaurant not Osvaldo em Loreto (BCS, Mexico)

O delicioso lawn com Arroz, Beans (beans), Guacamole (avocado) Quesadillas and the Pacific shrimp accompanied beer here in northern Mexico (em Loreto – BCS, Mexico)

A citizen of Loreto collects signatures from other residents to send a petition asking the city not to create a Casino in Loreto – Taking that success tenham against casino!

In late afternoon we continue further south to find a spot to sleep. We stopped first at Juncalito not find anything and we have been pleased to Puerto Escondido. The site is a point where the most "well lucky" (mainly U.S.) abut their boats. A bar at the top of the pier provides a pleasant late afternoon quiet well in the climate we were living there in Baja - with beer, papo e leituras.

View from the Pier in Puerto Escondido (BCS, Mexico)

Relaxing in the late afternoon on the pier in Puerto Escondido (BCS, Mexico)

The beautiful view we face in the wake camping Trip RV Park, em Puerto Escondido (BCS, Mexico)

Fernandes dismantling the tent camping in Puerto Escondido (BCS, Mexico)

The next morning we headed to Todos Santos and the path goes through La Paz (The capital of Baja California) where we would spend our way back to the ferry - that would take us to the mainland of Mexico - so we made a break for lunch only. All Saints was founded in 1723 by missionaries from Mission La Paz who went hungry fertile lands for exploration of corn and sugar cane and looking to convert a larger number of Indians. Hundreds of years have passed and the emergence of road that connects La Paz to Cabo San Lucas (tourist destination gives Baja California, mainly Americans), through All Saints, the city got its peak and tourist, in 2006, foi declared "Magic Town". And it is clear that the city was also invaded by the "gringos"! Although very nice and a very neat historic center with church, theater and many crafts, prices in constant dollars and approaches in English annoyed us a bit. Afinal a cidade é um retiro dos americanos – principalmente casais – que buscam um pouco de paz e melhor gastronomia do que ­encontrados em Cabo San Lucas.

Stop for lunch on the road near La Paz (BCS, Mexico)

Limpa e bem conservada a pracinha de Todos Santos é cercada de placas que remontam a história da cidade.

Traditional not Mexico, I 'murals’ traces depict the city's economy, important buildings, natural beauty and images of important figures in Mexican history as Benito Juarez, Miguel Hidalgo, and others… (in Todos Santos – BCS, Mexico)

The facade of the Theatre of All Saints – BCS, Mexico

The interior of the theater All Saints – BCS, Mexico

The traditional crafts in Todos Santos, BCS, Mexico

And that was where we were going the next day. We continue further south towards "Los Cabos" (Where is Cabo San Lucas) and, After we rotate and ask for numerous local, decided to spend the night in Las Piedritas. A beach not too crowded already (except for one or another surfer) and inaccessible. But we were with our companion Tanajura and was well acquainted with stony and soft sand! Tirou of letra!

We set up camp and eat a snack right there in the sand. ”Déjà vu " Jericoacoara? it seems right?! Hahahaha…

Noturno lanchinho na praia of the pebbles, BCS, Mexico!

Manhã output to Cabo San Lucas, BCS, Mexico

To see more photos from our visit to Loreto and Todos Santos, click here!

The post Os' Magic Towns’ da Baja appeared first on 4x1.

Date: 22/11/2012 à 25/11/2012

Path: Descend the mountain + Carretera Federal 1

Since Mexico entered havíamos, we now have several opportunities to camp and enjoyed the vast majority. Besides helping to reduce costs, in the course of time, we began to feel more and more comfortable in our tent. We become more agile to mount it and unmount it, often observed that the mattresses in hotels are not as comfortable as our tent and always gave us the opportunity to enjoy the starry nights and sunrise without leaving her. And afinal, is always good to lay my head on the pillow itself, is not even? That's exactly what we did on "The Coyote ", a lost paradise surrounded by mountains full of cactus, calm water and birds, quite often, cruzavam o céu ensolarado para nos dar bom dia.

Tanajura enjoying the scenery

View of the Road around Mulegé

We found "The Coyote " by chance. We were coming from the Sierra de San Francisco, Mulege rumo, town with a little more than 3.000 people, with historical significance to the region due to the Compagnie de Boleo, a Canadian mining company that helped in the development of the region, beyond the mission of Santa Rosalia to Mulege, third of the entire Baja California. The place where we would sleep would be "Beach Cottage", recommended by friends Traveler 1.000 days, due to its beauty and tranquility. To our misfortune (or happiness), The beach access was a complicated and a little dirty beach, with stones and woods scattered due to a recent hurricane that had been there. Assim surgiu El Coyote, lugar em que tivemos uma das mais agradáveis experiências de camping e vamos contar pra vocês agora.

Trem da Compagnie du Boleo fora de operação.

Church made of sheet metal in Mulegé – Desenhada by Gustave Eiffel, yes, the same as the Eiffel Tower!

Check da Beach Cottage

We got there late afternoon, after a few hours in the car. Upon entering the beach, which access was made direct highway, sighted some other vehicles, something between 8 and 10. Each of these, had a structure beside straw, a hub approx. 3mx3m being used for different purposes, one of them being, creative and very soon we will describe. With this blockhouse and taking into account the fact that we had already gotten most of the day in the car, groceries and decided to use our "knowledge" cooking to prepare our own dinner. No cardápio, pasta with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese, while for dessert, eat marshmallow own little stove that heated the take with us, since the woods we found there were wet and we have not succeeded in "making" fire. A simple meal, practice and tasty, que ao som da água do mar e com a vista para um céu limpo e repleto de estrelas se tornou ainda mais especial.

Pasta in the first night!!!

Desktop Marshmallow!!!

The next morning, after a short walk on the beach extension (800m), already knew a third of our neighbors. First, at one end of the beach, a couple of very nice Canadians gentlemen who were seated on chairs, next to his trailer, watching the birds drinking water in a container that you found thrown in the trash. She was so glad to see that the idea of ​​reusing it worked. Some steps back, toward Tanajura, and we were approached by a couple of travelers from Oregon, they were on the road a few weeks ago in a small car, knowing and exploring the Baja California, not Mexico. We exchanged some tips on campsites and places of interest to know, as we always do with the many adventurers who find the road. A little after our enhanced breakfast, com fruits, yougurte, cereals, e Sanduíche, Sandra met and Pe, a Dutch couple, traveling in one of the largest and most robust vehicles that we saw along the expedition. It was big as a truck and prepared for off-road like a rally car. With its color medium beige, com huge tires, sometimes resembled a tank. They will stay 1 year on the road to return to Netherlands,, but it should be a quick return, because the plan is to sell the house, raise more money and continue on the road!

The Dutch tanker!

After these interesting interactions with other travelers who often serve as inspiration for us, we explore one of the mountains that surround the beach. Without a well-defined path, ali na forming Fomos hours, our trail amid the giant cactus, until we reach a higher part of the mountain, where we got sight the sun custava atravessar large earth walls. More of an inside view "The Coyote", this time with the Sun as protagonist. The day passed and all we did was read, enjoy the view and hit a ball off the blockhouse in an area with dirt. While we played that way, we were approached by a man of distinctive appearance. Gary was in super shape for its age, (had discovered that 72 years old), wore hair down to his shoulders and a headband. Told us that once lived in Brazil, (Rio de Janeiro and Brasilia) for a few months years 70 and is super fan of our country. Today's researcher Gary Bird, more specifically ravens and attends "The Coyote" almost 30 years old, because there are no species under observation. At other times, research to lead to or sua pick up, Gary pedaled by 4.000km to get to the beach. He did this for years until the age leave the task a more complicated bit. His joy and excitement to speak of Brazil became even more intense as we give him a keychain with the flag of Brazil. Ver a sua empolgação com nossa expedição nos tocou profundamente e nos deu mais motivação ainda para aproveitar essa oportunidade única que estamos tendo.

Reading time!

Further reading…

After taking a trip to town for dinner, returned to our tent where we could once again enjoy a sky full of stars. The next morning, as we walked on the edge d'agua know our immediate neighbor, that just gave us your kayak. Needed over 1, but how many of the travelers had camped there and already knew half of them, task was not difficult to get more kayaking. More than an hour paddling, stopping to snorkel by 20 minutes, where we saw a few fish, several starfish, e até uma concha fechada com marisco dentro.

Kayaking the Dutch used by us!!!

Kayaking neighbors also used by us!

Early afternoon, we were invited by Gary to meet its museum of marine life. What would it??? When we got there, we were surprised to see the transformation he had made in his palafita. They had shelf edge to edge with several memories of fossils, shells, Hedgehogs… Ultimately, all he has found along the way 30 years of visiting the El Coyote. There he gave 2 shells for each of us, conchas iguais as que ele tinha na “faixa de cabeça” que ele usava naquele dia”.

Tiger and other findings from the sea!

Head of a Shark (shovelnose)

Chat with Gary!

Observação de pássaros.

Mais pássaros ao redor.

Enjoying the view!

Trailer do Gary!

Farewell!!!

After the surprise we had with Gary, took a leap in the market to buy ice, sugar and lemon. Guess why? We were taking with us a bottle of rum from the United States and there we saw the ideal place to enjoy a good caipirinha. Soon, o futebol estava mais divertido e leve.

The sun came time to say goodbye and make room the other stars that covered the night, illuminating our dinner. We decided once again and this time cooking a dish a little more elaborate: Arroz com legumes, Pure de batata and salsichas. Delicious!!!

Jantar farewell!

Expedition 4×1 was here!

Then you wake up the next Manhã, take a quick coffee, we said goodbye to everyone and give um ali last adeus to "The Coyote", mas com a esperança de um dia voltar para aquele paraíso em terras mexicanas.

If you want to see more photos from our visit to El Coyote and vicinity, click here!

The post The Coyote – Tranquility in Good Company appeared first on 4x1.

Date: 21/11/2012 à 22/11/2012

Path: Always follow the Carretera Federal 1 (Mexico 1) always guiding us through the boards and local guidelines. To get to ask guidance in Serra San Ignacio, where is the INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History).

Surrounded by two seas that cut the peninsula in countless beaches and bays, the Baja California, frightfully, also houses in its interior a narrow desert dry and extreme. With low rainfall and very strong winds, El Vizcaíno desert hosts an abundant number of animal and plant species that have adapted to these conditions and earned him the title of Biosphere Reserve by Unesco. But that's not all! O deserto El Vizcaino hides, inside, mysteries of human life dating back more than 3.000 years old!!

We left the bay of los Angeles after breakfast. We went after the best information about Sierra de San Francisco and the famous cave paintings hidden inside their dens. There were hundreds of kilometers traveled south and we went into our second Mexican state - Baja California Sur - where we were greeted by a huge dry vegetation, stony soil and cactaceous and more rugged stretch of Baja, cercado por altas serras e montanhas.

The ground dried cactus and desert El Vizcaíno, Sul Baja California – Mexico

The first stop was in the town of San Ignacio to glean more information on how to make the visit to the archaeological site of the Sierra de San Francisco. Our research, mainly blog do 1000 day for the Americas, us that we needed a pointed advance permission to visit the "Caves" where the paintings were. It was just before the 16h when stopped at INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History) to take away our doubts and buy tickets to ride one of the best known sites in the region: the Mouse Cave. Although this is the more traditional visit, the INAH has shown us that there are other views that can be made to see the cave paintings, some of these, lasting until 3 days, includes mounting a mule that takes the visitor into the mountains on a long stretch of downhill and then up camp right there on the nature of the site. It really seemed very interesting! But due to our budget constraints and our script we still had long defined by Baja, we chose only the simple visit to Mouse Cave.

A estrada that cuts to the Sierra de San Francisco, Sul Baja California – Mexico

We returned a few kilometers north by road Mexico 1 and hamper the paved road that leads into the mountains of El Vizcaino Desert. That path leads to the flat expanse of parched soil and cactaceous, goes towards the imposing wall on which it is situated Sierra of San Francisco.

Rumo to Sierra de San Francisco!! Sul Baja California – Mexico

We walked the final stretch of a few miles we came in very rugged and rustic, e only, Sierra da ali hotel. Impeccably clean and very tidy, Today the hotel is mainly maintained by owner Yandira, who received us. But due to our constant search for lower costs decided to sleep in the tent and just enjoy the food made by the Yandira there in the kitchen of the small hotel. The temperature falls a lot during the night, but nothing compared to the cold nights of Alaska! Hahaha Fomos dormir cedo.

The Tanajura enjoying the beautiful view from atop the Sierra de San Francisco!

Start of final stretch: Chaos and bumpy road (Sierra de San Francisco, Sul Baja California – Mexico)

O rústico and impecável no hotel Rancho San Francisco

Waking up in the morning chill of the Sierra de San Francisco

No dia seguinte por volta das 9h conheceríamos o senhor Jose que seria nosso guia na visita à Mouse Cave. The cave gets its name from one of its major paintings probably a deer, in which the ancient inhabitants thought to be a large rat, que lhe renderam to alcunha de 'ratón'. The paintings dating there were probably made by people Cochimi, from North America, and are of very high quality to international standards. They are dated between 1100 and 1300 a.c. and were found in the eighteenth century by a Jesuit missionary named Francisco Javier, in its passage through the region in search of colonization of primitive peoples there. Mysteries and beliefs lend an air of fable to some of the paintings: traditional beliefs say that the drawings were made by giant men, since some people have shown more than 2m! They also point to a mystical-religious content with men who seem sorcerers. But most of the paintings show hunting scenes and various animals of the region. Due to lack of information in terms of location and our visit restricted to only one cave, less than 1 hora já estávamos de volta ao hotel.

O Senhor conduziu us to cave Mouse

The deer (ou ratón – believed as the first discoverers of paintings) that gave rise to the name of Cueva!

Men “giant”

Typical dinner na caça Mouse Cave

Reading one of the few information signs that are in place

The hotel itself and Mouse Cave ficam populated outskirts of the small of the Rancho San Francisco. Near 100 People live there and, second in informaram, There are other smaller ranches here in the Sierra. Some of its residents work as guides, while others are devoted to subsistence activities in the region. Around 7:30 am, Walking distance to 5 minutes (even before the visit to Mouse Cave) Since hosting the rustic ranch until centrinho, nos permitiu apreciar mais de perto a rotina daqueles habitantes.

The entrance to the Rancho San Francisco

A humble little church gives and colorful welcome. Humble cottages are scattered around the town's only school there. At that hour of the morning, there who is watering the flowers from her colorful little garden and someone is sweeping the driveway. Father and son play for the goats in the pen while boys and girls play ball in the schoolyard. Clearly we were weird that reality, yet all greeted us with a smile and a 'good morning '.

But it was strange to see, return in that short walk, one of those very frightened goats tied in the trunk of a tree. And when we came back from cueva del Raton, hours, Só encontrava-ali to be corda that amarrava, some of its innards and bloodshed that left a trail into the kitchen of hosting. Our fear is something so trivial to their reality, reveals how we really are urban guys!

Child runs around the hotel in Rancho San Francisco

It was more an experience that fulfilled its role in our ongoing transformation.

The numerous goats on the ranch will open the way to Tanajura off the Sierra de San Francisco (Sul Baja California, Mexico)

Click here to see more photos of Sierra de San Francisco!

The post Mysteries do deserto El Vizcaino appeared first on 4x1.