Date: 07/10/2012 e 09/10/2012

Saímos of: Haines, Alaska, EUA.

Final destiny: Prince Rupert, British Columbia, Canadá.

Total distance: 765 km

Travel time: A day and Duas noites.

Path: We took the ferry across Inside Passage and, so, nos despedíamos do Alasca.

Where to sleep: In the chaos of the rest room, na balsa.

What we eat good: The food was not the best ferry, but got two sandwiches for free on the first day! J

Tire cheio: The opportunity to meet new people, sem pressa e sem a rotina normalmente corrida da Expedição.

Tire murcho: Sleeping on the floor is never good right! (hehehe)

Was 16h Day 07 October and we were ready to board the ferry that would take us from Haines to Prince Rupert, a trip 2 days, stopping to exchange vessel only once. We boarded with Tana and sailed around 17h toward Juneau, the state capital of Alaska, where would exchange ferry to leave then finally to Prince Rupert, Canada not. Tana Paramos a raft, along with several other cars, e subimos para a para fazer um reconhecimento da embarcação.

Entering the ferry

Essa route we would do between Haines (to north) and Prince Rupert (most southerly), sailing between islands and the mainland is known as Inside Passage (in Portuguese, interior passage). It does not come to pass by the open sea and the impression was that, As is ground on both sides, We were down a great river. Mountains covered with ice, glaciers and sometimes even whales are often seen things on that route (unfortunately the "high season" of whales had just a few weeks ago and I could not see any). But still, is a surreal landscape, especially when you remember that this is simply a "ferry" for routine users!

How much time we would not be in it, do not bother to look for good places, we just sat in the observation deck outdoors watching the beautiful scenery passing before our eyes while there was still a bit of daylight. The night came quickly and then down to Jantar we prepare to land, pois Juneau já estava próxima e precisaríamos dirigir a Tana até o outro ferry.

Passing time

As we did not know for sure how long we had to exit a ferry and embark on another, and so we were careful that everything was ok already removed the Tana and take it to the point of waiting for the boarding another ferry. However, then we found out that our expectations were not very real: we had to wait over 3 hours for boarding. Well, back a bit, so stop with Tana in the waiting area realize that the entry of passengers walk was about to be released. Therewith, we split and 3 of us went to the queue of passengers without car, others 2 were hoping to steer the ship when it authorized. The pedestrian entrance seemed a race. Let us explain why: not many people are willing to pay for cabins for sleeping and, then, bring their sleeping bags and pillows to lie in any public place of the ship and sleep. We, clear, we fit into this category. Therewith, when opening the entry for all passengers who are going with this intention immediately in search of the best places! We were in 3, then we parted and soon we were dropping our junk where we thought it a good place. After a few laps on the ship discovered a "small room of rest" that was definitely the best option for sleep: ground "soft" (carpet), few windows (what deixava dark) and with ample space between seats, encaixarmos great for our sleeping bags! Confirmamos nossa escolha logo que percebemos que várias pessoas foram atrás desse lugar hahaha.

Meanwhile Gabriel and Gustavo, accompanying the Tanajura, continued to wait outside and ended up making friends with other drivers who also awaiting shipment of their vehicles in ship. But one of them was special: Jeremy - a plumber approximately 34 years old, very smart and with a great life story, we talked a lot even within the ship (we will tell soon). It was almost midnight, the cold began to tighten. We were already hungry and after nearly 3 hours late, finally got put Tana na raft. Next step was to look for something to eat, since with the long delay in the exchange of ships could not eat anything. We had luck! The snack bar was about to close and you then saw our guys hungry and offered us two free sandwiches! Partimos para dormir nos espaços que tínhamos reservado.

We woke up the next day without haste, because this would be the day we would spend just on the ferry. We used to read a lot, write and play our favorite game of ships: One or! Hahaha. But one of the highlights of the crossing was able to chat with other passengers and watch the beautiful landscape of mountains of snow, glaciers, birds dived for fish, addition of small villages that were outside the channel Inside Passage, surrounded by pine. Foi nesse dia que pudemos conhecer melhor a história do Jeremy.

Reading, listening to music, resting…

The conversation began with him only the night boarding in Juneau through simple (and practical people costumeira) curiosity that Tanajura woke them. “Diesel hein?! Legal! …What kind of brakes you use? …This cool bumper! What kind of material did you use? …In how many inches you raised her?"These, Among many other questions showed that Jeremy knew about off-road. Actually he gave us a lesson. It, em moments, showed us the journals in off-road he signed and photos of your darling! By 4×4 yellow that looked like a bigfoot so high! Jeremy was a plumber and in his spare time took her 4×4 to "play" (As he spoke) mud in the interior of Oregon, where he grew up and where his parents and siblings still living. Jeremy still in boarding Tanajura gave us, also, a lesson on the cities there Inside Passage. Told us about the size of major cities and the "fight" between environmental policy, politicians and residents who were divided in opinion create a road that would connect Juneau (Alaskan capital to do) the rest of the continent. It turns out that Juneau is a small town surrounded by high mountains and glaciers and has no roads that cut and allow the city to more easily "connected with the rest of the world". If on one hand this would impact the environment, the rich nature of the region and also its "status" of small and harmonious village; second, its residents have other options out there, This would represent also an alternative to the ferry (such that we were getting) and the small airport in the city - by the way, both much more expensive costs to exit and enter the city. So, By this connection unless something practical and trivial, costs of city life are quite high, mainly with basic issues like food, uma vez que tudo chega ou de balsa ou de avião.

Conversation with Jeremy

And the conversation continued with Jeremy on the boat. He told us how his routine was working there in the region and behaved like the union to which he belonged. Reported on labor relations between companies, union and professional technical level, as ele. Muito interesting, because we know a little of the organization of these relations, their pay levels, advantages and disadvantages to each party involved, especially when compared to what happens in Brazil, where the demand for skilled labor is increasingly scarce. It could be an alternative model for us, but need to be well adapted, because workers and unions would be too beholden to corporate interests, sem muita flexibilidade e com altos riscos em situações de crise no país.

But the subject that Jeremy was more sensitive in discussing, and we most alongamos, was abortion. Although the subject is very controversial (not the whole world, by the way), Jeremy stated their opinions on this, about how he saw the interference of the State and also the theme on how this interference can impact and shape the thinking of American society. Jeremy still married to 15 years and he and his wife tried a son when he still had 16, but the baby died in the womb of his wife. The following year tried again and this time they had their first child. Other attempts have occurred and Jeremy and his wife lost more 1 or 2 children of miscarriage before reaching the number of 4 sons who have now. The losses rocked much to him and his wife who have studied the issue enough. Today Jeremy asks very lucid state intervention in the American health, once there is support and funding abortion methods and a disregard with respect to poor people with serious illnesses or even terminally ill (something that was not the first time we hear). He also spoke about the issue of the use of weapons in the country and how he sees a reversal of values ​​in society and in education as a whole. Jeremy sought religion a few years ago and now their daughters are missions to help communities at risk in countries of South America and Africa. Truly an amazing life story and that greatly moved us and made us think hard!

O barco prosseguia e a paisagem do lado de fora era mesmo exuberante.

Glaciers in the landscape

Observation deck of the ferry

At the end of the second day docked in Ketchikan, stop where Jeremy and descend, how we would get 2 hours standing laser, he invited us to see the car he had built with his own hands! We waited in a cafe near the port and in a few minutes he returned with his wife and with the car so we knew. The vehicle was actually a contraption, all modified, with a suspension that left much louder than a normal car, cutouts on the hood for engine breathing, current support for the driver get up, all designed to the smallest detail. Too bad the time was short and soon had the fire to voltarmos the boat, mas antes o Jeremy fez questão de orar por nós e pedir bênçãos para o nosso retorno à parte sul do continente.

We with Jeremy, your wife and your car!

According to changes made to the Jeremy

We returned to the boat for our last game of Uno. 23h was almost crying when a man passed by the ship's restaurant where we played our partidinhas: “There are some nice Northern Lights out there!” (Northern Lights is what they call the Aurora Borealis). And off we went running to the top where there was a ferry deck open for viewing from view. No wonder the amazement of the man as they are unusual cases of Aurora here in southern Alaska. Why E? In a simplistic way, and since we are not scientists, We can explain the Aurora as follows: O Sun, Alem de luz, also emits charged particles in space a lot of energy. These particles as they approach the Earth are "absorbed" by our atmosphere and displaced towards the poles of the planet (due to the magnetic attraction of the poles). Thus these particles collide with atoms of Earth (Oxygen mainly, we breathe, and Nitrogen) generating a chemical process in which releases light. Why the lights emitted by this collision of particles can only be seen near the poles of the Earth! Since the light emitted by the sun is stronger than the light emitted by these particles, Aurora can only be seen at night, with clear skies, cloudless. So, on a clear day, The later, less influence of city lights and closer to the poles you are, will be easier to see Aurora. Normally this combination occurs closer to winter, where the nights are longer and the weather (in the case of Alaska) but e seco, without influence of clouds. So, only very strong solar flares are able to allow it to be viewed as a place "far" Polo, where as there were! Something unusual happened! Eita fate, hein!!!

Aurora borealis giving greenish sky

Coincidence or not, this was our last night here in Alaska, because the next day already atracaríamos in Canada. The parade here in Ketchikan with Jeremy was, officially, Our last stop on the territory of our first goal (Alaska) and marks the beginning of a new phase: the descent into Ushuaia, Land of Fire, ou chamada também de O Fim do Mundo.

Fresh air to come. And the journey continues!

Want to see more photos of our trip? Click here!

The post Inside Passage – Staring at the start of the lap appeared first on 4x1.

Date: 28/09/2012 à 30/09/2012

Saímos of: Coldfoot, AK

Destination: Denali National Park, AK

Distance: 590 km

Travel time: 12 hours, pulling near 2 hour stop in Fairbanks for dinner and relax, and other stops along the way

Path: We take back the Dalton Highway, até a Elliot Highway, we dropped again to Fairbanks. From, followed by George Park Highway to the entrance of Denali National Park, próxima à cidade de Healy.

Where to sleep: Chão quentinho e gostoso da agência de correios do parque. After spending a tremendous cold camping in the camping area, mail (post office) with the lobby open 24 horas foi a solução para não congelarmos durante a noite.

What eat different: King crab (carangueijo) and more natural salmon! We take our passage to savor the culinary delights even more in Alaska 49th State Pub & Restaurant.

Tire cheio: The ballet's magical Aurora Borealis! So after much anxiety and positive thinking, finalmente fomos premiados por um espetáculo de luzes no céu do Denali.

Tire murcho: Park partially closed! Unfortunately, could not pass the mile 30 do Denali, since the road was closed from then on for the winter season. We arrived about 10 dias atrasados.

Denali National Park - Amigo Urso, Magic Bus and the magic of the aurora

After unforgettable days in wilderness, We were treated to a light show as never seen before. The Denali is truly a special place, which, no doubt about it, já tem um espaço reservado para sempre em nossas lembranças.

After we reach the most northern point of our expedition, in the icy mountains of Atigun Pass, we headed south. We left the morning of Coldfoot toward the famous Denali National Park and Preserve. The park encompasses more than 25.000 km ² of montanhas, forests and lots of wildlife. Ali is also home to the highest mountain in North America, o gigante Mckinley, with 6.194 metros.

Monte Mckinley, postcard park

Even with all our efforts, I could not get the time to have the entire park open for visit. The roads that cross the Denali are fully flyable during the summer season, from the middle of May until September. From dai, with the arrival of cold and snow in the region, a good part of the park is closed to visitors. There is still the possibility to participate in a lottery to get visit Denali whole car a few days after the closure of roads, but it is very difficult to achieve, devido à intensa concorrência.

From mid-September, Denali closes part of their roads due to weather conditions

Snow White takes over the landscape

Happily, was not all bad we missed the date. A visit to Denali in the summer, from Mile 15, can only be made with a bus available from park management. This runs regularly through the points of interest along the 91 miles (146 km) of highway cortam the park. Os visitantes podem descer e subir nas paradas que mais tiverem interesse. But, not allowed to use their own vehicle during this period. In other words, se chegássemos a tempo nunca poderíamos rodar com a Tanajura no interior do parque. Isso deixaria nossa parceira bastante sentida, tadinha! Then, in the end, although we found the only open until Denali mile 30 (48 km), had the pleasure of bringing us Tana, o que tornou a visita ainda mais especial.

Tanajura happy to visit the park

It was late evening when we passed the park entrance. In the darkness, we come to the only campground that was not closed for the winter season, already near the park entrance. Or was quite organized camping, with placeholders, tables and restrooms. And it was free. There was still some travelers out there, most of them in their gigantic RV (or RVs – Recreational Vehicles).

The temperature hovered around 0 º C, As we prepared to spend the night. We had not eaten dinner and there was no hope of finding something open at that hour in the vicinity. That's when we decided to cook a soup that we bought on the way. The task became very difficult with the cold and icy wind, who would not let anything in our toaster oven warmed pot. Suddenly, solution! Remember one a curious recommendation on the official website of the park. There is a post office (Post Office) in the Denali, que tem o saguão aberto 24 hours. The message indicated that it was the perfect place for those who wanted to escape the cold a little park. We did not know exactly what they meant by this, but we have seen this recommendation the only way to get a meal that night. We brought the utensils inside, juntamente com a nossa mesa desmontável e preparamos uma sopinha gostosa em uma temperatura agradável dentro do post office.

Dinner toasty inside the post

We think up to spend the night over there too, even in the lobby, but we decided to test our resistance to cold of Alaska. For? Before we had even gotten in the mail! We were beaten during the night! Nem mesmo o aquecedor que compramos para tentar ajudar deu conta conforme a madrugada caía e o termomêtro baixava ao negativo.

Icy morning in camping

Despite the cold, agreed to forward the following day, when we finally take a look at what the park has to offer. We went through Murie Science and Learning Center, an information center that functioned as the visitor center in the winter season, since the others were closed. We know the trails and learn about the park and the animals we could find on the way, antes de partir para a natureza selvagem.

Snow-capped mountains adorn the landscape

We decided to complete the miles by car possible (even miles 30), enjoying the weather was relatively open (at least more open than in previous days). The snow already took care of the landscape and the mud road from Mile 15. We were in no hurry, enjoying the mountain scenery and the animals that gave time or another faces. No horizon, who appeared was the giant Mount Mckinley, postcard park. His name is controversial. The natives used to call him alaskianos Denali (“the high one” ou o grande na linguagem Athabaska), but at the end of the nineteenth century, o dono de uma mineradora na região, gave the name to Mount Mckinley, as a form of political support to then President William Mckinley. Although this continues to be the official name of the mountain, o povo do Alasca ainda prefere manter as tradições e chama-lo de Denali mesmo.

View of Mount McKinley, or Denali, as the native

We reached the mile 30, where a gate prevented to follow the path. This stop has a beautiful view of Rio Teklanika, who became famous in the movies by preventing the passage of Christopher McCandless Alexander Supertramp or back to civilization in the film Into the Wild (“Into the Wild”). Para quem não conhece, o filme conta a história de um jovem que decidiu romper seus laços com a sociedade e ter uma experiência pura na natureza. Este seguiu seu rumo justamente ao Denali, where never returned. Remembered the film at all times within the park. Until today we discussed whether he had some kind of influence this crazy idea to go to Alaska by car. The Teklanika saw that there was not even the mighty river movie, since in winter the water freezes again and just get volume with the melting snow in the summer. We proved that McCandless would probably not have problems to cross it a few months later. For those not familiar with the movie, recommendation is! Very good!

Teklanika frozen river in autumn

We were taking some photos in our back, when a friendly park ranger pulled up beside us and asked if we had seen any wildlife. “Have you seen any wildlife?”, asked with a smile. We stopped to really think and had seen very little that day. Mas Little did we know it was for a short time…

Photo stop at road

We followed the road when, suddenly, demos in front with a giant bear grizzly!!! It was right there, in the road, walking without worries. If I were a cartoon would probably be singing a song of those very happy. He was shocked to see Tanajura and ran straight to the snow. Happily, after a few seconds, Bear thought twice and decided to keep walking around the track. He followed closely by the Tanajura few meters, like good friends. It was chilling to see the bear so closely!

Our friend was startled by the bear Tanajura…

…fled to snow…

…looked suspiciously…

…giggled…

…and again run alongside the Tanajura!

And crossed the river to swim!

As we still had some time to daylight, decided to make a track to finish the ride. We stopped at mile 15, to the path that surrounds the Savage River. At the visitor center told us that was where we would have more chances to see wildlife. With the bear we saw nearby, we do not leave the car without pepper spray in our hands. Bears may look cute and cuddly, but from solving up, no one hold. We followed the directions of the leaflets and were talking loudly the whole way, to draw attention to our presence. Bears do not like to be surprised. Increase the volume even more after seeing the footprints in fresh snow, that in order not bear were. No fim, no luck (or random) by ali, and not come across any animal. Mas já estávamos bastante satisfeitos com a nossa experiência com o grizzly horas antes.

Savage River, where we made our tracks

The trail followed the river bank

Coyote footprint (probably) na neve

We left the park in the late afternoon into the city for dinner Healy. On the way, we saw a restaurant that looked nice, the 49th State Pub & Restaurant. There was a lot of movement, so we decided to take a look to see what he was so special. That's when knotted in our heads. O ônibus mágico de Christopher McCandless (the film Into the Wild - Into the Wild) paradinho was in front of us! But what he was doing there?? Should not you be in the woods?? After a few minutes of confusion, find the answer on restaurant menu. The bus that was there was what was used in the filming of the movie. It works as a sort of museum, contando a história de McCandless a partir de cópias de fotografias e anotações, que ele mesmo registravam ao longo de sua viagem.

Com or magical ônibus Trombamos!

If that was the real talk, acreditaríamos!

The setting of the film and pictures with the story of Chris

When we came to Alaska to seek various information on Stampede Trail, which leads to the BUSES became famous in cinema. But, found that the trail is not usually done and is still very dangerous. Very few guides know the path, it would take a few days in the forest to be completed. Some people by the way, lost in the park or even died trying to complete it. Even the official website of Christopher McCandless, maintained by his family, recomenda às pessoas que não façam a trilha. The motive for the bus to be there the film was exactly this. The restaurant owner says he bought the bus from the producers of the film so that he was available for people to take their pictures without risking their lives for them. Ele you sensibilizou with the case u European tourist who drowned in the river Teklanika trying to reach BUSES. Moreover, was curious to see how all local criticize the stupidity of Chris in their decisions. In the end, To our surprise (and joy!), without hope, we got our picture with the magic bus!

Everyone is risked in the pose!

After a very hearty dinner, com e direito a King Crab King Salmon (a delight!), headed for another cold night in the park. Only this time the thermometer already marked negative temperature. If we had spent the night before cold, now imagine. That's when the post office again appeared alongside save our lives. "Today there is no escape, 'll sleep on the floor even!!”, think. And we did, until a lady who wanted to check his mailbox awoke in the morning. But okay, oddly enough, was a good (and quentinha) noite are!

Carangueijo (King Crab) and salmão (King Salmon) do Alasca! Like Sem!

The Courier heated invites us to spend the night!

Walk comfortably on the floor of the post office

Another day in the park, took the Tanajura for a walk in search of wildlife. This time we saw our friend bear close, but some appeared in other forest. Moose and reindeer also gave the guys once in a while. We passed the kennels, where trained dogs to sleds made our visit to the party. All Huskies eles alaskianos, um mais bonito que o outro.

Husky Alaskiano sorrindo for Photos

Watchful eyes!

Baita moleza!

We did another track in the Savage River, this time up the mountain for a beautiful view over the park. The walk lasted about an hour and a half and had the right rises somewhat tilted and Ice. Mas a vista vale o esforço.

Up to the view from the top

Quite cold and snow on the way

Vista Trail

The weather had improved compared to previous days, being that the heavy clouds that covered the sky for most of the time had dissipated mostly. It was our hope! In recent days, despite all positive thinking, the weather was closed, preventing the phenomenon that we could see more in the region urged, A Aurora Boreal. Throughout our journey, from or tied or Alasca Yukon, we were looking for this wonder, mas sem sucesso até então. Para aumentar nossa expectativa, o Denali costuma ser um ótimo local para observar a explosão de cores no céu durante a noite.

Happy with the open time!

From that day was nothing, it was now or never!!! The sky finally opened, Aurora forecasts for good, darn cold (say the Aurora appears most strongly in the cold days) and we wake. We were in the car waiting for the show. We would be as long as was!! That's when we saw a spot shy away from the sky. Was that as the famous Aurora?? We got out of the car to check. We were almost in when a disappointing faixo Green crossed the skies. He moved from side to side as if dancing. When we realized, the lights were dancing everywhere. Green, purple, pink, colors variavam! Ficamos ecstatic, admiring this wonder! Hard to explain in words and pictures the feeling, but it was as if something were happening really magical. And curiously, the moon was more crowded than ever, perhaps the brightest of the whole trip. Em theory, the full moon like that should disturb our vision of dawn, but we prefer to think that she just left the most beautiful scenery!

Light show at Northern Lights!

Green takes over the sky!

It does not seem real!

The moon shone brightly in the sky

But cheia, impossible!

Our days in Denali could not finish better way. The Aurora came to crown one of the most intense experiences and different that the expedition had hitherto. We go on, there is still much to explore!

To see more photos of Denali, click here!

The post Denali National Park - Amigo Urso, Magic Bus and the magic of the aurora appeared first on 4x1.