Date: 28/01/2013 à 30/01/2013

Path: We left San Salvador taking the CA 4N/Carretera Main del Norte. Entramos em Honduras passando por Nueva Ocotepeque e tomamos as placas sentido Santa Rosa de Copan até sairmos pela CA 11A em direção a Gracias.

Tourism in Honduras is among traditionally oriented 3 pillars: the first and best known is related to their Caribbean islands (as Utila and Roatan) which holds one of the largest reef systems in the world; the second is focused on its dense tropical forests rich in rivers and birds of various species. The third, and last, is related to the history and cultural background of the country, who witnessed the height of the Mayan empire - through the Ruins of Copan (northwest of the country) – e mantém viva uma forte herança da cultura indígena Lenca que ainda se mantém viva ao redor de importantes cidades coloniais do país.

The beautiful scenery of the mountains Honduran

Limited time, budget and even scarcer, needed to make tough decisions (and imagine that it is never easy to make decisions as complex as these to please 5 people!) We talked a lot, consider earlier experiences during Expedition and opportunities that we would still have to go in next countries…and, after hours, decided that we could not fail to know more deeply the historical and cultural side of Honduras. No entanto, as we entered the country from the west, vindo of El Salvador (passing the city of Nueva Ocotepeque), go to the magnificent ruins of Copan in force a huge comeback northbound through gorgeous, But poor, Honduran roads. (way more practical and traditional to go to Copan is from Guatemala). The decision was then taken: would go straight to 'Route’ dos povos Lenca e nossa base seria a cidade de Gracias.

Honduran Aduana at the border with El Salvador

Through the Honduran Institute of Tourism, no ano de 2002, 6 municipalities joined together to create a political entity in order to foster sustainable and equitable development of its population. These cities were built in the former territory of the indigenous Lenca and termed as, led by Cacique Lempira (señor se la sierra - which today gives its name to one of the states and the Honduran currency) were, between 1524 and 1550, center of resistance to Spanish domination in Central America. The Spanish domination have transformed much of the cultural traditions of the Lenca people, but the current work of these communities still seek to keep alive many of their inheritances, proudly, are found in restaurants, Crafts, Ateliers and sites around the city. (A small but very interesting museum called Casa Galeano, located in Gracias, reports about traces of primitive animals millions of years found there, the importance of local relief for the Spanish decision to occupy the region and provides an overview about the culture of the peoples who inhabited the region. Since the culture, legends and traditions of Lencas, until the invasion of the Spaniards and their achievements.)

A statue in honor of the cacique Lempira, Thank na main praça. The Indian brave who fought against the Spanish invasion, now bears his name in one of the states and the Honduran national currency!

The interesting museum Casa Galeano in Gracias, Honduras

Images of the indigenous cultures of the region Lenca, the museum Casa Galeano – Thanks, Honduras

Thanks is the main city within the 6 present in the Ruta Lenca and therefore deserves special attention. The city now has more than 25.000 inhabitants was founded em 1539 by troop domineering Spaniard Pedro de Alvarado. It takes its name, legend has it that, Logas after hiking through the hills of the region, Captain Juan de Chavez, crew of Pedro Alvarado, sighted the city and exclaimed “thank god we have flat land Allado.” (Thank God we found flat land). And due to its privileged geographical location was by Gracias (few) years the capital of the whole spanish colony in Central America (until the emergence of Antigua in Guatemala that overthrew). And mainly because it is the median of the two seas (Atlantic and Pacific), there was also built a major fort (Fort San Cristobal) to resist the various invasions that the country would suffer after independence(1838) between 1847 and 1852. The then president Juan Lindo Medina ordered to arm and fortify Gracias, so as to serve as a base in the country (only that in fact the fort was only built in 1864). Lindo Juan Medina is today buried there. He is considered one of the country's presidents (had also been president of El Salvador) by having Honduras declared a secular education, free and compulsory. Unfortunately, the strong U.S. interest in transforming the country - literally - in a banana republic never allowed progress as desired by Juan Lindo and the Hondurans.(since the U.S. intervention in Honduras, in the late 19, participation of bananas within the total country's exports jumped 11%, in 1892, to 66%, in 1913, and shaped the entire policy of the country in subsequent years, in favor of the investment interests of U.S. companies in the country.)

A bela Merced Church facade gives em Thanks, Honduras

A Fort San Cristobal input do em Thanks, Honduras.

The country suffers, today, the consequences of their (induced) underdevelopment with traditional clues that we could realize, as: economy weakened by lack of investment and higher education (delaying the development of industries and jobs); even the presence of machismo and alcoholism in some families and clutter space in cities, com estradas ruins e zonas com grandes quantidades de lixo espalhado.

O belo e muito organizado centro histórico de Gracias é um exemplo para o resto do país.

What ever imagined, however, is that this small town of Gracias (that was a few years the capital of all Central America!!!) we would offer, in so few days, with moments so fun and enjoyable and contact 3 histórias de vida marcantes.

And it all started with a key…

Lizeth Perdomo owns a restaurant called Rustic Rinconcito Graciano, not historical center located Thanks. His restaurant is strongly recommended in traditional tour guides and well known among the inhabitants of Gracias for keeping alive the most typical cooking Lenca. Lizeth tem 45 years and had a daughter with 42 - The small Maria Victoria, hair and pale brown eyes and clear - is the daughter of a case Lizeth with a German who did not take paternity leave and the creation of Victoria in the hands of Lizeth. Dona Martita a lady of almost 70 years old, is the mother of Lizeth and also lives with her. You Martita was abandoned by her husband and sexist alcoholic who lived 10 years with another woman before dying of cirrhosis. All these stories we were told by Dona Martita, em uma das mesas do restaurante ainda fechado.

Lizeth and the little Maria Victoria

We had arrived in Gracias a Monday around 20h and went directly to the restaurant Lizeth. Strangely it was closed. We knocked on the door and a lady came out shorty, very old, to meet us. Martita was a woman. Ali outside she told us that Lizeth had not yet returned from a meeting of the social activities of the church of Gracias, when suddenly the door of the restaurant (which is also inhabited by Martita, Lizeth and the small Victoria) se fechou. Dona Martita was stuck outside! We asked what we could do to help her and Martita (by considering badly dressed to go just scuff the house of God) asked us to go to church looking Lizeth and ask him his key to open the door to his mother. Off we went to find someone who had never seen in life! As soon as we find Lizeth, she handed us the key and asked us to wait there with his mother for a horinhas and, as soon as they finish their activities, would receive us at his restaurant. And so we spent over 1 hora e meia arranhando nosso espanhol com a simpática senhora que nos contava muitas histórias.

The expedition with Lizeth and Dona Martita restaurant in the center Rinconcito Graciano, em Thanks – Honduras

Owner of restaurant, Lizeth Perdomo studied marketing and worked many years in La Ceiba (one of the main cities of Honduras). Worked with city projects (Thanksgiving and região) development and culture on the table in a project involving projects related to health, education and art. Interested in developing their community, Lizeth studied the background, for many years, Lenca culture and also acts as a local guide, being the only woman, among 14 that exist in the city. Participates as a volunteer in social welfare activities and cooperate in activities of the Catholic Church City. His latest dream (which already has architectural design ready and awaits only the output of external financial resources) é transformar sua casa e restaurante em uma hospedagem sustentável.

Dining in Lizeth with cutlery and crockery produced by the Lenca community. Thanks Em, Honduras.

With a speech always in favor of local business development, Lizeth is an example of community citizen. As his work in the parish had finished late, decided to leave our meal with her for breakfast (after all she is very thorough and prepares everything to order using including pots, cutlery, bowls and utensils made by the communities themselves Lenca). Leaving there hungry we went to a local pizzeria that, despite being closed, primes and William Carlos, as soon discovered that we were Brazilians, made sure to reopen it and prepare some pizza. Very friendly and jokers, sat at the table with us and after much ask us about Brazil, put videos with songs and dances of Honduras, the Tip - Has 'descent' Garifuna - And the conversation rolled loose until late! Carlos was returning from the U.S. after a failed attempt to improve life. Happy with the new business, he was still shocked to have left behind his daughter and wife, although Salvadoreña, U.S. had crecido. Chat chat will come, we did not realize that already passed the 23h! We ran back to Finca Bavaria (a small property that had once been a small coffee plantation) and more than lordy 70 years old, tomava account that the Finca, was asleep and left us locked outside!!! We entered into despair because there was Tanajura!!! The solution?! City, Our only alternative was to jump over the wall! Off we went again remember the college days! There were 5 grown men doing "little foot" jump over the wall to the other…hahahaha

The Expedition to the friendly cousins ​​William and Charles!

A entrada da Finca Bavaria.

Fernandes recalling childhood and over the wall of the Finca! :)

The next morning, as combined, returned for breakfast prepared by Lizeth. Also agreed to spend the day with her to know more about the locals and the Lenca culture. And we went… first stop: the site of sr. Maximino Rivera!

The friendly, humble and very intelligent sr. Maximino Rivera.

About the Sun. Maximino is senhorezinhos those you love to meet one day in life and be able to spend the day with him in the field, walking on their property and listening to their stories… And that's exactly what we did. Very humble and unable to read or write, sr. Maximino always cultivated their own lands and created its over 5 filhos.

Very humble, Mr. Maximino not know exactly where is Brazil. Or even if we have become a republic independent. You have no idea of ​​the dimensions of our country neither knew that Brazil was the country where they were located the colossal "river that hardly see the other side"… "In the great forest" (Amazon), he once saw a documentary and that both impressed. But he knew that Brazil is, once – he said – heard on the radio that is one of the most important countries in the production of coffee and world reference! In which, a few years ago – he continued – a crisis has raised coffee prices in the region there. But it, 'Your’ Maximino, not always cultivated coffee. The product was recently inserted into your shifting cultivation which also includes peanuts, cane, corn and, incredibly, a tilápia! That is kept in tanks supplied by a system of 5 km of pipes qem comes from a higher point of the river of the region to his small property and fruitful, at the foot of the highest mountains in Honduras! He proudly showed us their land and at the end we toasted with a syrup taken from reeds planted there by himself! But what impressed us most was his knowledge of production of methane gas through the organic remains of his plantation. With the knowledge acquired by a technical training offered to local producers (many years ago), Sr. Maximino do your own cooking gas in a sort of greenhouse, and the excess organic matter is compost for its own planting (composting). Incredible!!!

Sr. Maximino nos mostra orgulhoso até onde vai suas terras que ficam situadas ao pé das mais altas montanhas Hondurenhas.

The tank 'your Maximino’ and I found the Honduran Montanhas

A part of the plantation 'your’ Maximino.

Sr. Maximino preparing us a delicious sugar cane juice (ou garapa) diretamente colhida em suas terras.

Sr. Maximino proud displays the stove being “powered” by the gas created in your own greenhouse, by the decomposition of organic material!

We talked and he asked us quite… talked about the lands of Brazil, its climate and topography. About the current economy and how many children a family has an average Brazilian today (given the difficulties of raising and educating a child currently). And he delighted in knowing how extensive was the continent (in amount of contiguous land) to be possible to drive many miles without crossing no bed! (And it's true! If you think about, really impresses the possibility the Americas allows us to virtually go from one pole to another, without, theoretically, the need for large navigations!) And as all Central American, he loved to see a note of Real and soon realized the conversion 1 Real to 10 Lempiras.

Walking through the ownership of 'their’ Maximino

At the end of our visit, sr. Maximino was thrilled and thanked us for that afternoon that, he said, filled him with joy and learning. But who really was we learned that we had a lesson in agriculture and concepts of recovery and development of natural resources: ali, on-site, from the humility of a simple man who created and employed a large family and now has grandchildren studying engineering at university in Honduras, and are very proud grandfather!

Sr. Maximino and his grandson who is studying engineering at a University Honduran

Photo farewell to Sr. Maximino e Lizeth.

Later that day we went to visit the offices of Atelier home called 'With him art las manos', by Dona Desideria. Ali witnessed a typical workshop descendants of Lenca culture and careful and precise work of their children and grandchildren producing clay products. It's amazing how long they take to make each piece (many custom - going up to the USA and a class in college) and the low price charged for them! The son of Dona Desideria, Leonel, paid his high school studies and 2 early years of college by selling the work of the workshop. Toda família trabalha e sabe mexer com o artesanato.

The beautiful and very well made Lenca culture dishes typically are sold at price “banana” Ateliê not 'With art on hands’ Dona Desideria and their children. (I La Campa, Thanksgiving arredores, Honduras)

We returned from the ride and we were dining at the restaurant's new Lizeth. We left early back to the Finca, but anyway lordy breached the deal and left locked outside! Again!!! But this, at least, time we were with Tanajura. And as our girl was a bit overweight to jump the fence with us, decided to go to sleep in the main square. We talked to the watchmen of the public buildings around the square who assured us that they would protect us! (that the city does not present any risk ) E ali armamos “acampamento”.

Tent set up in the middle of the main square of Gracias, Honduras.

The Expedition with the friendly personal safety of public buildings Gracias, in the main square, as Tanajura “mounted” at the bottom!

And so our intense passage by Gracias. The friendliness and welcoming citizens have allowed us to know the background stories of their lives and enrich a little more of our own. Realmente tocou nossos corações.

The post Life Stories…Honduran appeared first on 4x1.

Date: 14/01/2013 à 16/01/2013

Path: Belize has only a few main roads. Seguimos as placas pela Western Highway.

"Leaving the bustling Belize City we walked away from the north coast and Belizean adentrávamos a little more inland. The road that led us to Dangriga cut saws and fertile fields where one could observe large monoculture fields of sugar cane and orange - two of the main export products of the country. Also we could see peasant communities of mixed origin who lived on agriculture, Maya and their descendants. Unlike Belize City, the villages there were more clean and well cared for and the road gave off a delicious scent of flowers that accompanied some parts of the main highway of the country. And to redownload the coast would have one of the richest cultural experiences we had in Belize, and maybe Central America: contact with Garifuna culture!”

O forte e agradável cheiro das laranjeiras ao longo das estradas Belizenhas denunciam a ainda forte dependência do país na monocultura.

Passing through Dangriga has begun in unusual ways. As soon as we got a corner to open our tents on the outside of a small inn, two university professors and their student group, All Americans, bombarded us with questions! The group of about 15 young, in the range of 19 years old, were perplexed to see a Brazilian car, with 5 grown men, that ran the Americas in their colorful tents, and stopped there! the inn where they were staying! (And they can not imagine how we were also curious to know what they were doing there also!) After you answer the many questions that we are used, as "as had the idea?”, "How long planned?”, "How to live in 5 people so intensely?”, "What is the biggest difficulty faced?”, etc., etc., found that young people were, mostly, first anistas college Holy Cross Catholic College, do estado norte-americano de Massachussets.

Tanajura catching a tan in front of the inn's owner Pinky, em Dangriga – Belize

The beach in front of the hostel owner Pinky, em Dangriga – Belize

For nearly a decade, o Father John (Father coordinating a group) leads, annually, a group of students from different courses from the humanities to Belize, an activity of exchange and cultural immersion. Groups, mostly composed of girls, are usually students interested in becoming teachers. From different disciplines as Pedagogy, Psychology, Social Sciences, etc., young people enjoying their vacation from college to reconcile the opportunity to live for a few weeks in an English speaking country, and underdeveloped, (a reality TOTALLY different from what they are accustomed) with the possibility of exercising techniques and concepts learned in their courses, permeating an exchange with the local teachers. Being very new, end up absorbing much of the experience of being alongside more experienced teachers! A very nice!

Dinner prepared and served by Mrs. Pinky (the owner of the inn), reap some tips with the group and depart the next morning to discover the amazing history and relevance of Dangriga to Belize: the culture of the Garífuna people!

Early in the morning we set off for the small and humble museum called 'Garifuna Museum Gulisi' and with the guidance of a Garifuna woman herself (appropriately dressed as a typical Garifuna) we traveled in time warp, for a story far removed from what we used to learn in Brazilian schools…

The Garifuna lady who received us very well and had great pleasure in telling us the history and cultural traditions and food of its people who live across the Caribbean coast of Central America. (No museu ‘Gulisi Garífuna Museum’, em Dandriga- Belize)

Everything goes back to the arrival of the Kalinago people (Indians from the region of the Orinoco River Delta - current Venezuela) the island of São Vicente (Current 'Saint Vincent and the Grenadines'), no Caribbean. Brave Warriors, the Kalinagos soon clashed with Arawks, primitive Caribbean, living in the region. With the death of most men, Kalinagos the women did their wives Arawks, miscigenando both races and forming what later the British would call 'Red Caribs’, or 'Red Caribs'.

No entanto, around the years of 1635 the 1675, men of African origin arrive on the island. As well?! For it is, the British had a hand in it there… é clear! Survivors of ship wrecks several British (carrying Africans to work as slaves in their provinces in the islands of the Antilles these men swam to the coast of St. Vincent in search of freedom and start a new life. But as soon as they found living there, the 'Red Caribs' have left cheaply. After numerous conflicts between them and miscegenation (attended to with a few Spaniards who were there too), a piece of black prevailed, adopting much of the local cultures and forming a new "ethnicity" on the island: the "Black Caribs’, or 'Black Caribbean'. This new population 'Black Caribs'Becomes known later as Garífunas!

The Caribbean Sea (in this photo, in front of Dangriga – Belize) witnessed – centuries – the struggle of African survivors of shipwrecks of the British ships that transported as slaves. Os negros nadaram até as ilhas caribenhas em busca da liberdade.

From 1750 the island of São Vicente was divided between 'Red Caribs’, os Garífunas (or 'Black Caribs’) and a group of French. French?! Yes, expelled by the British from other Caribbean islands and who had also played with the local Caribs for a piece of land for cultivation. No entanto, a chegada dos ingleses causaria um grande distúrbio na ilha.

The British wanted to dominate the entire island to expand its lucrative sugar and slave markets and, so, take full control of the islands of the Antilles. This sparked a war over 32 years between the English against the Garífunas, that earlier had the support of the French. After many battles and deaths, the British finally took full control of the island: expulsaram os franceses e conseguiram a rendição dos Garífunas.

No entanto, as the Garifunas were black skin, their freedom to come and go island bothered by the English plan to enslave blacks brought from Africa in Garífunas who saw a chance to also become free. Thus begins a chase that Garífunas to start to seek residence in the West Indies and other islands until they reach the coast of Central American countries. During this period the total number of Garífunas barely passes the house 200 people!!! Ultimately, after the independence of the Central American countries against Spain, as Honduras, Guatemala and Nicaragua, most Garífunas migrated to Belize where a large population of Garífunas already living in the town of Dangriga: who for many years was the second largest in the country!

Around 1920, Thomas Vincent Ramos sought help public health community and creating institutions to support the Garifuna people in order to maintain their teadições. In 1941 was created a holiday (19 November – date of their arrival in Belize) em celebração à herança cultural Garífuna.

The mural displays some traits of the Garifuna culture which is currently spread over almost the entire Caribbean coast of Central American countries. Featured, the flag of Dangriga of the major cities of the Garifuna culture today. (em Dandriga, Belize)

The museum we visited Gulisi is named after one of the first women to reach Belize Garífunas with their 13 children, initiating the occupation of the territory and the first settlements. The story of Gulisi and his arrival in Belize via oral history was transcribed by his granddaughter. The Garifunas are now everywhere in the small town of Dangriga which has only 9 thousand inhabitants (Belize whole has only 356 thousand!). Your Language, that contrary to what many think, There is nothing African. It consists primarily of the tongue 'Red Caribs’ (Arawk and Kalinago - source of indigenous South Americans) and English influence, French and a little Spanish. Besides the language, sua cultura, music and folk dancing is considered by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity!

The lady shows us what we know as' Tipiti’ (instrument of braided straw used to extract the juice of ground cassava and make it dry) in front of the table illustrates the cassava. Below, uma chapa usada para torrar a mandioca seca que sai do Tipiti.

A turma 4×1 gathered in front of the museum 'Garifuna Museum Gulisi’ with our friendly guide Garifuna. (Dangriga – Belize)

In Dangriga we also have another amazing experience. With the permission of Father John and accompanied by 3 American students, Expedition 4×1 back to school! We left early for Holy Ghost School to know closely a real classroom Belizenha! In divided into 2 groups not to disrupt the very classrooms. We stayed at the college for two shifts 45 minutes each and we witness two classes from two different disciplines and age ranges: between 5 the 12 anos.

School Holy Ghost School in Dangriga, which opened its doors to new students of the Expedition 4×1!

The crowd stirred in the interval between classes…

A comic hanging in the room, helps students memorize the national symbols of Belize. And you know what are the official symbols of Brazil? Unlike Belize which also has elements of flora and fauna, our restricted to Brazil Flag, National Arms (Coat or National), o Hino Nacional e o Selo Nacional.

We must admit that this experience played strong in our hearts. Never again be imagined sitting in the portfolios of a smorgasbord of classes of primary. It was nice to be back at school… join the call, see the backpacks neat, follow the teacher with a book and see the kids raising their hands to answer a question. Further around children so dedicated and participatory!!! Sometimes giving up desire to raise his hand to answer a question of mathematics or geography. The excitement of the children to participate in the class is similar to adult happy to interact with us in the streets. Coolest is still see the teacher changing language between English and Garifuna to explain some things students!

Aluna vai ao quadro negro responder questão proposta pela professora.

Aluno concentrado na tarefa que a professora passou.

At the end of class, we had a great opportunity to talk with teachers belizenhas, they told us feel very proud of what they do. Not only that school, but from what we saw in the afternoon hiking we do while we were there in Dangriga, schools were always full of students at certain hours! All uniforms and uptight and elegant. Anxious waiting for the signal to leave the yard and play ball (in one of the late afternoon we were there, among more than 20 young blacks, average, 1,80m height! Needless to say how much flew on bumps, nor?! hahahaha) Returning to the subject of education, by the teachers told us, and to see the enthusiasm of the children in the classroom, just wait for the next few years we see a picture of change in the country for the better! After all it is necessary to reverse the current social and economic situation of a people that has been highly exploited by the British and now basically depends on the export of agricultural commodities such as sugar cane, citrus fruits and bananas. But it was sad to know that students have a rate of only 25 belizenhos dollars (Search R $ 25,00) annual pay for school and yet between 25 the 40% not afford to pay!

Students rush to enjoy the recreational! Now, imagine having a school with a privileged view of these?!

Alunas no intervalo de aula.

Crianças em outro colégio de Dangriga brincam de corda.

In one of the late afternoon we were also accompanied by a gentleman and scruffy wanderer who told us that, exchanged for a, offered us the "tour" the city. Earlier suspect, but after a short conversation, we run into the ride. Telling stories and greeting local, you took us to see the live work of master craftsman Dangriga: Mr. Austin Rodriguez. In his humble workshop by the beach, Mr. Rodriguez produz há anos os mais famosos tambores que são vendidos por toda Belize e ajuda a manter a tradição musical do povo Garífuna.

Privilege to watch the master craftsman Austin Rodriguez concocting one of his very well-crafted drums – em Dangriga, Belize.

His team removing the skin (a goat) that will be used for the manufacture of drums. Note that your workshop is simple and oceanfront!

The drums trunk wood in various sizes alinhandos, esperando o acabamento final e a colocação da pele de cabra.

During the Christmas holidays and New Year, the Garífunas performam a typical dance called Wanaragua. It, young male female wear masks and dress in women's clothing (from head to toe in some kind of disguise) and dance to the beat of the drums (such as those made by Mr. Rodriguez). This dance keeps alive an oral tradition Garifuna about a strategy developed by one of its top leaders: Satuye. The story goes that his men Satuye dressed as women to surpreenderem the English who came into their properties "innocently" without waiting male resistance. So, so clever, os ingleses foram surpreendidos pelas falsas-mulheres Garífunas que os desarmaram e os derrotaram.

The Garífunas Belize are currently around 15 thousand people and represent approximately 30% the total in the world (mostly in Central America). They are everywhere in the small city of Dandriga: be in classrooms, in craft shops, fishing or trade. Are a great example of resistance to European colonization and the struggle to preserve the richness and uniqueness of the wealth of a people. In their case, to exceptional Afro-caribenha!

A weekday common in Dangriga…

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